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Why do you need rads that are exactly the same shade of white? Have you got some side-by-side in the same room? You’re happy to have different style radiators around the house but not slightly different shades of white? Sorry just sounds a bit baffling

OP, why don’t you let some water out of a bleed vent into a measuring jug until you’ve lost approx. 0.1 bar. Might need someone at the boiler while you do it or a few trips back and forth. Only way you’re going to get a decent estimate on your own system with variables others have mentioned.

Get on your hands and knees and inspect the grout closely. I’ve had en suite shower leak in the corners which turned out to be small cracks in the grout due to a loose tile. Worth check before resealing.

How can you tell if it’s galvanised? I can post a closer photo of it will help. If painting isn’t recommended is there a way of bringing back the shine?

Hi, could you please advise the correct method and type of paint needed to paint a roller garage door (see attached photo). I was wondering if there is a specific type of paint I need to use so it does not crack when the roller door is opened. The door itself does not get used that much, I’d...

Gap looks spot on. Tiles and adhesive will easily overhang the gap. Then a nice thin bead of silicone - you shouldn’t even need to flood an gap first. Don’t go anywhere near those sealant strips.

No offence mate, but this is penny pinching at it’s absolute worst. You need to by a complete toilet seat with fixings. Very few people in the world try and magic up a solution like you are trying to.

It’s a washing machine isolation valve (Pegler). https://www.screwfix.com/p/washing-machine-valve-without-check-valve-15mm-x-/51231?tc=AA9&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8tSFpK636wIV2t_tCh1TGQmhEAQYASABEgJUU_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds You’ll need to isolate the mains...

Thanks I do appreciate it and have no experience at all with these, it’s very difficult to visualise it and try and work out the measurements etc. If you wouldn’t mind taking a look at the measurements f the new toilet attached. You’ll see the gap for the pan connector is 115mm so very little...

I could be wrong but I don’t think the one you linked has a long enough run on the toilet end. The pan connector on the new toilet is 155mm from the wall. I can’t see how that would reach but the back to wall version has 214mm. I’ve attached the two dimension diagrams. Am I missing something?

Hmm it says “Ideal for installation in the vertical position”. I guess you’re right it doesn’t mean you can’t use horizontally :-)

Mcalpine themselves! See attached. Photos show orientation and in thee description is mentioned the same. https://mcalpineplumbing.com/wc-connectors/flexible-wc-connectors/wc-con8f18-btwc-short-90deg-back-wall-flexible-wc-connector Will get both and see if I can fit the longer one. If not...

This is what I wHat I was looking at apart from the shorter version. I don’t know why but they recommend this longer version for horizontal and the short for vertical, but I’m sure this long one will be too big for my setup. They look identical to me apart from the length, why would they not...

Thanks. One I have seen is this: https://www.plumbers-mate-sales.co.uk/mcalpine-short-flexible-bent-back-to-wall-pan-connector---42000005-4357-p.asp Or could I just use a standard short flexible connector...

Not unless you want to Barnsley kiss the wall in front of you when sitting down ;-) it’s a small downstairs toilet, where it is is where it has to go.

I’m a changing my downstairs toilet, when looking into the dimensions of the new one I have a few questions about the pan connector. I have attached a couple of photos of my current connector too. Which comes from the side wall, turns 90 degrees and into the pan. The other photo is the rough...

Odd, without hearing the sound I couldn’t really say but buzzing on these are usually caused by a capacitor shorting on one of the boards. If it’s a different ‘buzz’ I can’t really help

That controls the boiler/getting store up to temp and the heating itself. The one you replaced is for hot water demand. The way to usually tell which board is to hold something like a pencil on it and see if it vibrates. Going by sound alone is difficult.

Replace the other board. The buzz always comes from one of the PCBs and it can be hard to tell which one.

It was just a joke mate. I’m with you. Hope you get it sorted. (y)