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You could PVA/SBR them then fill with bonding, then skim over that with multifinish. Or you could PVA/SBR them, then mix 50% bonding and 50% multifinish and plaster them in, working them like multifinish. Or do three or four fills and sanding with Easifill.

So you want to "seal" stone and then paint with "breathable" paint?

PTW papers don't expand, hence why you can PTW and apply them. PTP's expand slightly after pasting, hence why the paper's instructions advises how long to leave the paper after pasting before hanging. If you PTW and hang the PTP straight away, the joins will creep over one another as the paper...

You have three options, either build up the low areas with self leveller, or grind down the high areas, or a bit of both. You can hire a concrete grinder, I got one from a local hire firm. Farmers often use them to put rough grooves on the concrete to reduce cows slipping.

Remove the incorrect materiels and fit the correct materials.

In short, no.

Sand, fill, sand, fill, sand, Zinsser Guardz, emulsion, fill and sand as needed, emulsion.

Plastering means you need a flat background. So either put hardwall on to a max of 11mm (old school), or dot and dab plasterboard on, (new school). At each corner, measure an inch out on the ceiling, chalk line between the two and then dot and dab the plasterboard on until you see the chalk...

I'm not 100% sure, but there might be tile adhesive and grout for aga areas. So I imagine you need to use adhesives and grouts for high temp areas. And all grouted, no gaps.

Unless you scrim tape the corner between the ceiling and wall, then plaster both, it will always crack. So every time you decorate, caulk that join.

Probably vegetable/rapeseed oil. I've seen that video a few days ago.

Proper plasterers per City & Guilds know that you need to change a high suction background into a low suction background by the appropriate number of watered down PVA or SBR coats and how long to leave the last coat before applying any kind of plaster product.

Short answer, yes, the edge is uncovered.

Parapet walls are covered under Building Regs so you just need to check the relevant Approved Document online. You can buy specific cavity trays for parapet walls.

You can't dot and dab on a solid wall, unless you want problems. Simple as.

The air in an unvented chimney stack condenses, this can cause damp. To avoid this in a blocked off/redundant fire, you fit a 9"x9" vent at the base and a vent cowl on the top (or some kind of mesh etc..) There's a thread somewhere asking about what happens if the chimney stack was taken down...

The only luck you have is trying to find out which outlet supplied them, and the ultra rare chance they still have the odd one lying about. Other than that, a case of taking bits of the old tiles to the tile outlets in your area to try and match the colour. If you find anything suitable, maybe...

Correct, not a lack of foundations. I said inadequate foundations.

I normally grout that gap in when tiling, then it can be painted to. In the future, if there's a crack, the decorator would caulk and paint it. Silicone is to seal around the sink top and bath, not a long ceilings. Personally, caulk the gap and get a coat of white emulsion on the ceiling.

Building Regs Approved Document K covers staircases. Document K It's trying to workout what minimum width your staircase can be, it doesn't seem clear in Document K. My only proposed solution would be to widen the stringer. There was an old cottage where the stairs didn't have stringers. So...