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I agree that it is likely that the floor was prepared incorrectly as you will see from the fist sentence in my first post on this topic. However, if it was prepared correctly, and the original author has not replied yet re the surface tiled to, and used the correct adesive, then the problem...

You can get tile transfers. Tile paint is an option but will look rubbish. How about replacing them with mosaics? You might find that with a bit of jiggery pokery, an exact number of mosaics will fit where the ugly looking tiles are. Follow Durgo's advice for removing. Good luck

The size of the gap depends entirely on the size of your bead of silicone/sealant. The silicone/sealant is there to cover the gap between bath/shower and bottom row of tiles. There is no need to fill the gap with sealant or grout. There should be sufficient space for the bath to move up/down and...

I agree also but it might be salvageable - if the correct adhesive was used and there is no movement in the tiles - and the problem is restricted to the grout (which I very much doubt) then the original poster may get away with a re-grout with epoxy.

Depends on how well they are fixed. I am with jefoss on this one - I would seriously consider taking them up. If they are fixed well, then you can tile over it. I would was the tiles with sugar soap, key the tiles (scratch them all so the adhesive has something other than the glaze to stick to)...

If all the grout is cracking - then I am afraid that it is very likely that there is a problem with either the surface he tiled to having movement or he has used the wrong adhesive for the floor. The fact a tile has come loose shows this. I would also recommend a grey grout for a floor...

What nonsense - Sand/cement render is one of the best substrates you can tile to. I would suggest however that the initial render is left to dry - then tile onto the dry render with a suitable adhesive. If you want to tile it at the same time as rendering, what is the point of rendering -...