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The CDi div valve comes with the relevant o rings and washers but if you've never changed one before get a pro in.

PCB

Hammer and bolster on the pump valve nuts. Easy. Bung the system or shut off gate valve type valves.

Check your pump. Turn it down to its lowest setting and see if it stops. If it does replace it. If not running correctly it won't operate the flow switch but will in CH mode as there is less resistance to flow.

Should be able to get the small o rings that have perished quite easily although you need a special tool to get them out. A diverter valve repair kit for a 24Cdi should have the correct o rings unless you want to fork out £170 for a new valve :shock: which would be easier and quicker.

Check to see if the pump is still running. The pump overrun might be staying on which means a faulty pcb (if wired correctly). The pump should stay on for approx 8 mins after the burner has gone out.

The old gas valve fitted to the Ultimate is now obsolete (Mcclaren I think). The new gas valve kit will come with a pilot tube and different gas valve and lead, a SIT.

And my guess would be flame sensing electrode out of place or faulty. :wink:

digger and driver about £150-200 per day. pipe about £40 fittings about a tenner About a days works. You work it out. 2 mens labour plus digger driver. If it worked out at £900 I'd be surprised.

Change the ignition pcb. That will cause the faults you describe. Actually, most components on the Promax will cause that problem :lol:

If your cold water supply into your property is 12 lpm then that is very poor. Best get that checked out first by your local water company. You need to also check the incoming pressure from the mains as well as the flow rate.

It might pay you to get a decent wiring centre with colour codes and instructions and start again. It'll probably be easier than getting instructions from a forum :wink: We don't know what wires you've removed or where from. Start again or you'll get in a right mess.

There are 2 spindles in there. You will find the small o rings are perished (probably on the rh side which is the ch side). Should be able to get a service kit for that (drain down required). I think Halstead boilers use the same diverter valve so try them if unable to get it from Biasi.

Normally pump and boiler but depends what boiler you have.

http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=102879

Was it blue in colour and did it have 'Switchmaster' written on it :lol: (the old one)

Why did you change the valve? What valve was in originally? What colour wires were they? How many wires were there? Was the problem existing? Would you do it again :wink:

Sounds like the air pressure switch isn't making. Dirty fan, worn APS, flue/fan clamp broken. Get a registered installer.

Don't confuse the 'diverter valve' with the 'servo valve' which is operated by the mains water. But it does sound like the domestic HW heat exchanger is becoming blocked.

Oranges = ON Brown = OFF. If you have the pegs out they will be ignored by the clock, so you could have it on once a day if you required. They are also numbered 1 - 4 I think.