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That one is a tile and a half, it's covering the small lead apron that I made.

I'd like to say I'm that brave but she's the type that would take me to court if any cracks appeared in her concrete. It's already cracked in places and I've taken photos just in case they should ever be needed. I don't think the concrete is straight to our property anyway as it was cast in...

I was tempted to give building control a call to ask but I don't think they'd know and it would probably open up a can of worms by asking as I'm then on the radar. Would be nice to at least cut it flush as it means kerb edging all along one side which would take a lot of room if the concrete...

Yeah it's quite sheltered but the freak weather this year has made me reconsider a few of my projects! I've used lead clips and put them in about every 200mm, it's pretty well fixed and like the look of mortar more than lead mate. How far should the battens be from the edge of the cement...

Would really appreciate if you get time to do a bit of a show and tell as yours is exactly the same as mine. I initially tried with 25 X 38mm graded battens and kerfed the back to about 14mm depth. Left these to soak for a week in a bit of a jig and then tried to get them in position. Wasn't...

I completely agree, am I allowed to though? Thanks.

Got a bit more progressed and am at the verge board stage. I've got about a 40mm overhang from the fascia board and have cut the battens back so that the mortar doesn't touch the batten ends. Will I need tile clips at the verge? And does the lead flashing at the top end just fold over...

Bit late to the party but wondering how you got on with your bay tiling? My situation is exactly the same and I've tried kerfing, soaking for a week and steaming the 19mm and 25mm battens. I could have basically wrote your exact post. It seems impossible to get standard roof battens to curve...

Bit late to the party but wondering how you got on with this? My situation is exactly the same and I've tried kerfing, soaking for a week and steaming the 19mm and 25mm battens. I could have basically wrote your exact post. It seems impossible to get standard roof battens to curve that much...

Thanks for the reply, The neighbours have had the driveway block paved and I believe it's got a lip so we don't get run off. Will have to go check now to confirm. We had the idea of putting battens against the concrete and maybe cladding but a small wall does sound a good idea but it would...

Hello all, We're thinking about having the driveway block paved in the near future, Our neighbours property is higher than ours and has a raised driveway which was cast from concrete in the 1950's. Part of the footings extend onto our property by approx 150mm in places and about 50mm from our...

Got it in, and I think I'm somewhere near now after much bashing. Not over the moon with the bottom cover, any suggestions? Thanks

Ah ok thanks, I might have cut the tiles a bit too tight to the abutment in that case. I'll have to remove them and nip a bit off. Guess that will get rid of the gap at the top as well then? Or do I add another soaker?

Morning all, decided to do some roofing in the rain. I'm confused as to how to get the step flashing to look decent when it's fitted. It's sitting across three rows but unless I cut the profile to match the tiles as well it'll end up having a big gap at the top tile. Do I need to make another...

Bump, can anyone confirm regarding the step flashing? Thanks

Took a few photos of the setup as is. Took the eaves soaker off and replaced it with a piece of cement board so I can put mortar in the gap for a better finish. Would like to confirm regarding the step flashing, do I bend the flashing an inch around the bottom and top corner or finish flush...

Thanks again, I may remove the lowest soaker and replace with verge board or trim the lead a little neater. It's mainly covered by the downpipe and guttering anyway. I'll fit a support for the soakers, an additional lath across the rafters? I'm hoping the tile doesn't break but will silicone...

Thanks again, I did look through the Calder's guide which gave me the info about the lead hooks (50mm wide?) but couldn't see anything clear about the edge details. I think I did see something saying that soakers shouldn't be used with Interlocking tiles but I like the look of step flashings...

Couldn't have asked for a better example! So the lead drops over the side of the tile and is formed tight to the fascia below I'm guessing? I've been making the top flashings this morning (although it's bloody hot!) and some lead hooks to support the run every .75m, I've gone for 1.5m lengths...

Thanks again, I did cut the tile straight at first but went against it as it didn't look right. I might nip it off if it still doesn't look the part. With regards to the apron, should I have formed the first soaker up over the eaves tile then? I've had to leave the cement board out from under...