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I have a small leak from a flexible hose which takes the hotwater supply into the shower system. The hose connects to the column on the back of the shower system and then goes under the floor to the supply. The leak appears to be coming from either where the braided hose is crimped to the...

Ah good, I wasn't sure if I'd be laughed at for such a crazy idea but it sounds like it's worth investigating further. I was thinking while down there of adding some lighting anyway and a smoke alarm is a good idea. I could isolate the sockets from the consumer unit by tripping the breaker...

Under my house is a void about 4ft high, accessible through a trapdoor and some steps down. I'm looking to relocate some electrical equipment currently in a cupboard in a spareroom (which soon won't be spare for much longer) and I'm struggling for a new location. So I wondered if it's...

I want to swap the Honeywell thermostat for a Heatmiser thermostat/timer and want to understand what the connections are.

And this is the wiring diagram in the thermostat. Mine is wired to 1, 3 and 2.

I have a Honeywell thermostat with a dial to set the temp and a Potterton timer and they are wired like this. Can someone tell me if this is volt free switching and what the wires do. The top is the diagram illustrated inside the timer, the bottom one is the actual wiring.

I removed the old skirtings to be replaced with some new floor matching skirtings, but the new ones are not as high as the originals. Behind one section of the old skirtings is a thin gap which could be skimmed to level it with the wall, but the old plaster behind is quite dry and dusty...

Wow thanks for the quick reply. So on Cable B the Red wire to the Com would that be the power and the black to L2 the switch live, or visa versa? Thanks again

I have some new switches to replace the tired old switches in the hallway and upstairs landing. The downstairs switch is a 2 gang 2 way, upstairs is 1 gang 2 way. I've looked at the existing wiring and am wondering if someone can fill in the blanks based on the diagram below, I'd like to...

Are the push button coded locks generally not good enough for real security?

Can anyone tell me if the Push Button Coded Door Locks are secure enough for Insurance companies? I'm thinking of fitting one of these from Screwfix on my garage side entrance door which is accessible from outside...

Thanks for the description. I have a thermostat that is powered by 12v but has a 240v 3amp volt free output. I'll be using it to control electric under floor heating and due to that being 4amps have a separate contactor, the ufh will be powered from an rcb/fcu mains spur. How does the...

Hi Can someone explain (or point somewhere that does) what a Volt Free Output is and how it works. Is this the same as a Volt Free Contact or Volt Free Switch? Thanks

Yep, I could use the RCB as the junction box and run all the wires to that, i thought it might get a bit messy and crowded in the back box though. :)

I want to do some pre wiring ready for an electrician to make the final connections on my UFH. I am hoping that it will be suitable to use a nearby mains spur using a 30amp J-Box with 2.5mm TE running to a FCU (or RCB/FCU combined, it's an old fashioned fused box unit) which will then...

What rating fused connection unit should I use to run a lighting spur from a mains socket to handle a max of 250w lights? Should I run 2.5mm from the mains socket to the FCU and then 1.5mm from the FCU to the light socket? Thanks

I went through all of those and there is nothing that matches the one I'm after. My current circuit seems to be be parallel wiring using the 2 gang switch and 3 core + earth at the pendant to the swtich and the 2nd light. There is a loop of wire in the switch joining the L1 and L2...

Does anyone have a lighting wiring diagram for a 2 gang switch controlling 2 independant ceiling lights from a std lighting loop Thanks

It's OK, I checked the instructions and there it was, the square in a square double earth logo, so no earthing required. Thanks for the help....

They came from B&Q so they should be to British Safety Standards, the guy was you fairly typical B&Q employee, fairly helpful but certainly no expert.