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As far as I can tell the timer switches the meter from the high rate to the low rate. Although it is obviously a separate device, it is intrinsic to the E7 system - ie how does the meter know when to switch over if there is no timer? When it switches all the electricity in the flat goes through...

Sent them this photo, pointing out the seal on the timer and the fact that it has "LEB" sticker on it. Also pointed out to them that if it were my device I could just set the E7 timings to whatever I want, which would defeat the purpose of the tariff.

I think the "smart" meter issue is their problem. They have a notice on their website that there is a shortage of these for E7, but I don't need a smart meter, I just want the timer fixed/replaced.

Now the dopes are trying to tell me that they only deal with meters, and the timing clock is my responsibility!? How do they expect an analogue meter to run without a timing clock!?

It may be to my advantage at some point in the cycle, but given that the timings change on a day to day basis it's currently just chaotic. Bulb tried to argue that I wouldn't use any more electricity, but that isn't true because I have to put the storage heaters up higher due their sometimes...

So, I have to wait for "months" (their term) to get it sorted out? How can there be a shortage of meters!?

I have an Economy 7 system, the clock and meter are approximately 30 years old. Recently the clock has been gaining approximately 2.5 hours a day – so effectively you never know when the Economy 7 mode is going to be on or off. My electricity supplier is Bulb. I contacted them two weeks ago via...

I have seen something similar to this with auto-switching units, ie those that switch lights on and off randomly. If they have a standard filament bulb in them they work perfectly, if they have an LED in them they don't work at all - that is to say that with the LED the auto-switching does not...

I'm sure they know better than me, but I would have thought it more likely to happen mid morning rather than at night. Thanks for the reference anyway.

Er, you haven't been reading my posts, I've already written that about five times, in various ways. I don't need the NHBC to tell me that, it's basic physics. I think the debate here is about whether localised cooling can exist, I think we all accept that it can, and what can be done to...

I had to think about that for a moment - how could you get external condensation!? So, I figure that this is most likely to happen early in the day, the external glazing has cooled overnight, the external air is warming up and increasing its moisture capacity, but comes into contact with the...

This is a complete mischaracterisation of how condensation can and does form. It may be the case that peak humidity does cause condensation, and then this disperses, or can disperse, through ventilation. But, condensation can also form in a room where the average humidity is in the "normal"...

I think the problems here are twofold: first you don't seem to be able to understand that condensation can be dealt with other than through ventilation (which kind of negates the idea that better performing windows have fewer problems with condensation) and that although you seem to be able to...

AronSearle, thanks for posting, I was beginning to think I couldn't get anyone to understand the basic point I was trying to make. I did a little experiment today with a scientific digital thermometer that I happen to have. In the middle of the living room the temperature was 21°C, on the...

I never wrote or implied that. What someone else wrote was that uPVC suffers less than aluminium. I think that's obvious, and the reason for that is that uPVC does not conduct anywhere near as well as aluminium. That's really my only point here. I did not realise that you were an expert in...

You know what, I actually understand that point, because that's precisely the point I'm trying to make: you cannot actually get rid of water vapour in the air, because it is a natural part of the environment. Well, you can get rid of it, with condensers, etc, but you can't also live in the same...

Here's the science: the air has the capacity to hold a certain amount of water, this is called humidity, and is expressed as a percentage of that capacity. Hot air has a higher capacity and cold air has a lower capacity. When hot air cools, ie when it comes into contact with cold surfaces or...

A car is a really bad analogy for a house/flat. For a start the "heating" in (almost all) cars is a free by-product of the need to cool the internal combustion engine powering the car. In a house/flat one needs to pay for the heating - hence the drive to double glazing in order to reduce the...

I've got a similar problem, but with all the windows in my flat. They are aluminium (powder coated or painted white) and appear not to have any thermal break. The frames, once it gets cold outside, are cold to the touch, but the glazed units themselves are ok, and we don't get condensation on...