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I have just done what you mention. I assume you only have 1 flat above you. 3 150mm lintels (about £6 each from Wickes) are needed to place at the top of the pillars to support the load above. Take out the course of bricks yopu want the lintel to go into, brick them in, then remove the bricks...

There isnt. Chisel out with a hammer & bolster and replace I'm afraid.

You can take them out but you then have to be very careful that condensation doesnt build up.

B&Q are selling a stand alone ceramic cutter for £30 approx. We've used it - excellent job

Wood expands and contracts depending on the temp/humidity etc. I can only think that the door is "settling". Give it a month and ask him to come back and re plane it. It can take up to 6 weeks for wood to fully adapt.

Can anyone offer any advice on the above subject. I am about to install the bath/radiator of my new bathroom - I assume these both have to be bonded. What are the regs as I want to make it as discreet as possible - there's nothing worse than seeing a gorgeous radiator with bare copper pipe...

Does anyone mass produce simple straight Victorian style coving? The original one is not particularly complicated and I'd hate to have to use an inappropriate style.

just found out its brick arch mistyped! apologies for wasting everyone's time....

Anyone know what this is??

Whats your e-mail and I will send a photo?

couldnt he just use standard silicone sealant?

I have taken the render off the front of my blocked in fireplace up to about 5 foot. I am a little confused as I was expecting an arched top to the fireplace opening. I have got about 5 foot up and it looks like its a completely square top - is this common? Its the fireplace in the kitchen...

Doris - its the straight type. The ceiling itself is covered in a horrid patterned lining paper which is uneven and loose in parts. It doesnt seem to be sagging so I guess its a question of removing the paper and seeing what confronts me!

Thanks for the advice. I will look into stripping the wall back to the brick and opening it up as a feature.

I'm on the ground floor with a flat above me (and the roof above that). I want to remove the chimney breast in the kitchen - its covered over and I will never need a fire in the kitchen. Access to the flat above is problematical. My question is - is it possible to remove a chimney breast...

I may need to replace the lathe & plaster ceiling in the living room. Problem is that the coving on the ceiling is beautiful and one of the few "period features" remaining in my flat. Does anyone have any experience/advice on dropping a lathe & plaster ceiling whilst keeping the existing...

Whats the best mix for the cement on an exposed pathway? I will be laying Victorian tiles on top of it so it wont actually be exposed. I have to replace a small section after laying a water main. I was thinking 4:1 sand cement - does that sound right?

The variation can be down to the types of DPC they have quoted you for. Chemical injection is the cheapest got from 330-50 a metre whereas the insertion of a new DPC (the DPC is ground out and bit by bit a new membrane is inserted) and this can cost £100's+ a metre. Damp companies who come...

I should have mentioned its in the porchway so will not be exposed to the elements. Also forgot to mention a DPM! Thanks for the advice anyhow.

I recently had to dig up a small section (approx 1m x .5m) of the tiled pathway in front of my front door to run a new water main into my flat. The main is now in and it's time to fill the hole (approx 300mm deep). I am assuming I lay in about 200mm of hardcore and then pour 100mm of cement...