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and the same slate that was used as a damp proof course in houses for hundreds of years?

The door should also open across the room - ie the hinges are on the side nearest a wall so that the room is completely in view when the door is open.

http://www.pavingexpert.com/pavindex.htm This site will let you know.

The concrete is not a part of the footings. The top later is 2-3" thick and loose in most places. Like I say it will easily dig out with a shovel once the top player has come away. Its not a part of a fireplace, there is one in a different part of the room which i have already dug out.

I am about to lift the wooden floor in my kitchen for several good reasons: - its uneven - laying in new plumbing for a new rad - cleaning out the underfloor space and checking for adequate ventilation - replacing/strengthening the floor joists on one side of the room the floor changes...

anyone have any advice/tips? Need a few 1.5" diameter holes and its a nightmare

Masona Thats what I'm hoping for!

Eventually gave in and dug up a section of the pathway (managed to save 90% of the original tiles so the damage isnt too bad). Have drilled a 1.5" hole through the brickwork under the front foor sill. I still have to get either through or under the footings of the front porchway. Started to...

Its going 750mm underneath my front garden rising under the foundations to 150mm under my porchway and then into the under floor space in my front hallway wia a hole in the brickework.

Can this be 1.25" pipe or does it have to be bigger?

Kriss What brand is the hob?

Cheers for the feedback guys - its down to the Vaillant 837e(£830) or the Worcester Bosch 35Cdi (£930). At the moment I'm leaning towards the Worcester because they have a reputation for reliability - but your recommendadtions are giving me 2nd, 3rd & 4th thoughts!

opinions please in particular the turbomax 837e cheers

In through the trench and out through the brick under the step and into the sub-floor space under the hall? Exactly. I will try your suggestion - HSS quoted £130 (I finally found someone who knew what they were talking about) to hire the drill & extension bars for the day.

Cobweb I have already dug a 600mm trench in the front garden so I know where I want the hole to come out and I have taken the floorbaords up in the front hall, under the front step are 2 courses of bricks which is where I want it to emerge. For all I know it may just be 5 feet of clay/mud...

Need to drill a hole approx 1.25" in diameter & 5 feet long - through brick, concrete & clay. This is to put a 25mm water main through in its sleeve. Anyone know if this can be done with a drill & extension bars? Or is there another way? The guy at the local HSS shop says they dont have...

In that case can you recommend any good CORGI registered plumbers who would be willing to inspect & connect the new combi boiler I am installing? All the pipework will be in place I just want someone to double check my qork and connect the gas supply at both ends.

Rob - I'm in East Finchley, N2 North london. You're welcome to the pipework when they come down.

I have 2 cast iron rainwater downpipes to replace. One of them goes into a freshwater drain (well, it goes 6 inches to the left of the drain and needs moving) the other empties onto the concrete surface adjacent to my exterior wall - hence damp problems.

I want to run an existing cast iron rainwater down pipe into a drain a few meters away. Is it possible to attach modern plastic fittings to the bottom of it or do I need to replace the whole thing. Thanks in advance.