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Recheck working pressure at meter tapping point with the boiler running, if it's over 22mB contact Transco (or your gas transporter if different in NI, perhaps Phoenix?) to get the regulator looked at, unfortunately that means turning off the gas supply until they arrive (usually pretty quick)...

There'll be a tundish on the outlet from the safety relief valve, if it's dripping then that'll be hot water escaping to drain, hence the overnight loss of hot stored water. If this is the case regenerate the air gap by following the printed instructions on the side of the cylinder, or search...

Surely if the leak was between heating and DHW circuits the pressure would rise to that of the mains rather than drop. Remember, the failure mode has changed from slow loss of pressure to rapid loss, with no obvious damp problems. Steth, double check the safety discharge pipework has not...

JB, check in the garden for a large outbuilding. Look inside. Does it house a swimming pool? :? Otherwise your calcs would indicate an average of 10kW heat input for 24 hours a day, or about 26kW for the 9 hours your heating is on, ie the boiler is running at full rate for 9 hours; this...

Sam, the first thing to do is cure the leak which causes the pressure to drop. The other symptom points towards a failed diaphragm in the diverter valve, but could also be an indication that the secondary heat exchanger is partially blocked, When hot water tap is on full what rate does the...

Then it may be the end switch on the valve not supplying the demand to turn on the boiler, on hot water this is not required. If I'm right, and your symptoms are accurate, the heating should work while the HW is reheating. Does it?

Possibly a two port valve was stuck open on the heating side, equally a three port stuck open. Rarely I've found a water leak (from the valve gland) causing a short inside the valve head, though this depends on valve orientation too. Could be you have a frost protection stat, though this...

If you can stand the aesthetics take the flow connection to the top of the rad, keep the return at the bottom. It was usual to run 3/4" (22mm) pipe to gravity rads, raising the inlet will give a ittle extra "push". Gravity rads will work on hot water OR heating OR both.

You also have to turn on a separate tap under the boiler (very near to white filling key) to get the water to flow in. Fill to about 1 bar, bleed upstairs rads, refill to 1 bar, then turn off tap and remove white key.

Solos can suffer from heat hardening to the air pressure switch sense pipes, which then crack. The APS itself can sometimes fail, but usually this becomes unreliable before it fails. Stupidly these heat sensitive parts are at the top of the boiler where it gets the hottest!!! The spark...

Check the heating valve, or three port valve works. Put the heating on and turn the roomstat up, does the valve drive open? Or is it one of the really old Servowarm manual diverters? Anyone remember them? :lol:

Can you get water out of the rads' bleed nipples? Air? If so it's filling OK. If not it's not! Open the valve to the hot water cylinder and run the hot water demand with the boiler switched off, continue to bleed air from the high spots around the cylinder until circulation is restored. Then...

Not quite right, but the rest is good advice. When water boils it produces steam, not air. This expands to about 22,000 times it original volume, then promply condenses back into water, and contracts, when it hits the cooler water above. The subsequent shock wave causes the rather violent...

And the air pressure at my house dropped by 20mB today but I didn't get any in my pipes, all that happened was it rained a bit outside. What does your workmate suggest you do if the air pressure rises? Seriously though, it sounds as if the pump has failed, and your hot water is probably...

Back to DarrenD... Turn the valve lever over to MAN, and turn on the hot water demand. If you get heating while the hot water is reheating then there's no fault with the boiler. Harrogate had it several pages back, probably a failed sync motor in the 3 port valve head, or a failed...

It could also be the Domestic Hot Water heat exchanger at fault, leaking mains pressure cold water into the heating side. If so a new DHW heat exchanger is required, plus some seals. Don't let a plumber touch it unless he/she carries (and shows you!) a valid CORGI card.

If you have some vertical movement on the pipes, and some help, you can turn off the isolation valves, loosen the unions, lift and rotate the rad to the floor. Then bleed air from the loose unions before rehanging it. Make sure all the rest of the system is free of air or you'll have to repeat...

IMO very good, better than the Fernox boiler buddy in tight spaces, and they now do a 28mm version for about £130 +VAT. Your 22mm one is about £90+VAT, but does include isolation valves. It's not see through, but is dead easy to clean as the magnet has a removable plastic sheath.

Heed what Tony has said regarding "competance". If replacing the cylinder you will also need Building Regs approval as this has been a "controlled service" for over 4 years now, else use a tradesman who can self certify (CORGI reg'd, Institute of Plumbing member - phone Building Control at your...

As R22 is a refrigerant and boils at about -40C at atmospheric pressure I strongly advise against it's use on your delicate rear-end paraphenalia.... ...It also is accused of destroying the ozone layer and thereby giving Australians cancer.....so conflicting motives there :lol: