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Digging up an old thread, but did you use the postfix brackets in the end? Any success? I'm in a very similar position to you and trying to work out what's best to do.

Not doing very well here....thanks anyways. ;)

Yeah. I said I had lost the screws that came with them and wasn't sure if I needed specific plaster screws or if standard small screws would be ok.

Had the ceilings and walls reskimmed and painted. Need to put the smoke alarms back up. I seem to have lost the screws that were holding them up before. What should I use?

Fixed. Swapped them around and all sorted. Realised that taking the faceplate off the dimmer makes it much easier to fit when the cables are tight as well :) Thanks again both.

Thanks. Will switch L2 and Com in the morning. Hopefully its as simple as that.

I have a multimeter. But have no idea how to use it for testing mains live. I will check all connections again in the morning, then swap L2 and Common. Will let you know.

Where did you see that? I was told this dimmer was fine and rexommend for use with a standard on/off switch? The instructions don't mention the need for master and slave. I guess the main query is. If I swap around L2 and common. Is anything terrible going to happen? Or can I just swap back...

Ah. Just edited my last post and suggested this as one possible problem. So, if I swap Common and L2, would anything terrible/dangerous happen if actually at the moment its correct? Would having those the wrong way around lead to the problem I am seeing? I just don't want to swap it...

If it helps its a JQP401W Varilight dimmer. If haven't touched the on/off switch. I think its one of two problems.... 1) the common terminal on the dimmer isn't connected properly, as it was a real pain to get it and kept working loose. I thought I had a good connection last time I...

No. Ones in the common of the on off, ones in one of the other terminals.

Ok. Had a look. At the on/off switch we have two reds and one black. At the dimmer, two blacks and one red! Am starting to wonder if we should just live with how its working now! All is fine except on/off control at the dimmer, unless the on/off switch is set to on, then its all fine.

Well. I had the missus there who's job was to remember the order of the cables. She then "got confused". We definitely know the L1 is correct but not 100% on L2 on the other one. If we just switched those two around is that a possible fix? Taking photos is an issue because there is so...

Recently replaced some bedroom downlights with led down lights. Everything worked ok, but we had an old dimmer and it was causing flickering and buzzing. So, changed it today to a varilight led dimmer. Everything works much better flickering and buzzing wise but I think I have wired something...

Thanks. Can I mist with watered down permawhite? If that's ok, what ratio?

Hi I have some leftover permawhite that I used in the downstairs kitchen and bathroom. Just repairing the upstairs bathroom which was previously patched up with standard emulsion. Son of the old paint was peeling and I have removed the peeling and flaking paint which has gone back to bare...

Thanks. I know emulsion is generally not good for wood and radiators but LG claim the intellimat will work. I was really just trying to save a few quid by using the same paint. But, now have decided to use the intellimat on the walls and the eggshell on the wood.

Would you suggest using the eggshell for the woodwork then?

We used wallrock in a cold room and it 100% made a massive difference. Amazing what a couple of mm of foam backing (or whatever it is) makes.

So after some advice on here and some research, we are difinitely using LG intellimat on the walls. How's about the woodwork, radiator and ceilings? Can we use the intellimat on those as well (the shirting colour which I understand is very close to white, with a flat slight grey tint). Would...