2 way light switch. Replaced switch

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Recently replaced some bedroom downlights with led down lights. Everything worked ok, but we had an old dimmer and it was causing flickering and buzzing.

So, changed it today to a varilight led dimmer. Everything works much better flickering and buzzing wise but I think I have wired something up slightly wrongly.

Its a 2 way switch. There is a simple on off switch and then the dimmer.

Now, you have to have the on off switch in the on position for the dimmer switch to work. The dimmer then turns on and off fine. But if the on off switch is set to off, the dimmer does nothing. Its all useable but will be very annoying at times.

Have a wired up something the wrong way around or do I have a lose connection? Its a bit tight behind the switch, which makes things awkward.

Hope that makes sense.
 
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Did you note down how it was originally connected up.
If not upload pictures of switch terminals and cables at switch location.
Also cables terminated at the second switch.
 
Did you note down how it was originally connected up.
If not upload pictures of switch terminals and cables at switch location.
Also cables terminated at the second switch.

Well. I had the missus there who's job was to remember the order of the cables. She then "got confused". We definitely know the L1 is correct but not 100% on L2 on the other one.

If we just switched those two around is that a possible fix?

Taking photos is an issue because there is so little room.
 
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Ok. Had a look.

At the on/off switch we have two reds and one black.

At the dimmer, two blacks and one red!

Am starting to wonder if we should just live with how its working now! All is fine except on/off control at the dimmer, unless the on/off switch is set to on, then its all fine.
 
If it helps its a JQP401W Varilight dimmer.

If haven't touched the on/off switch.

I think its one of two problems....

1) the common terminal on the dimmer isn't connected properly, as it was a real pain to get it and kept working loose. I thought I had a good connection last time I tried though.

2) I have L2 and common the wrong way around on the dimmer.
 
If your defo L1 of dimmer is correct, then it would/should be a case of swapping the other two cable at com and L2

Ah. Just edited my last post and suggested this as one possible problem.

So, if I swap Common and L2, would anything terrible/dangerous happen if actually at the moment its correct?

Would having those the wrong way around lead to the problem I am seeing?

I just don't want to swap it over and cause any problems.

Cheers for your help though, very much appreciated.
 
Reading the spec, the manufactures state that the dimmer should not be used in conjunction with other switches and a master and slave set-up should be used.

But would expect you to be still be able to control the dimmer and it not be troubled by a rooker switch providing installed correctly.
 
Reading the spec, the manufactures state that the dimmer should not be used in conjunction with other switches and a master and slave set-up should be used.

But would expect you to be still be able to control the dimmer and it not be troubled by a rooker switch providing installed correctly.

Where did you see that? I was told this dimmer was fine and rexommend for use with a standard on/off switch? The instructions don't mention the need for master and slave.

I guess the main query is. If I swap around L2 and common. Is anything terrible going to happen? Or can I just swap back to what I have now if it doesn't work without damaging my electrics.
 
Okay I have two contradicting instruction of this switch.

Okay do you have a means of testing for voltage?
As this would be a great help to determine which cable is permanently live.

If not make sure all existing connection are good and not loose or damaged, if the current configuration is not then working swap L2 and Com at dimmer.
 
Just had a look at this switch pbody and it's a standard varilite V pro dimmer module at the rear so will be fine with a two way set up.

It does sound like a strapper and the common have been transposed when the switch was replaced.
 
Okay I have two contradicting instruction of this switch.

Okay do you have a means of testing for voltage?
As this would be a great help to determine which cable is permanently live.

If not make sure all existing connection are good and not loose or damaged, if the current configuration is not then working swap L2 and Com at dimmer.

I have a multimeter. But have no idea how to use it for testing mains live.

I will check all connections again in the morning, then swap L2 and Common.

Will let you know.
 

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