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my god, who fitted this? A GasSafe engineer or a cowboy ?

Yeah the more I’ve thought about this today the more obvious is was always doubtful the heat would be able to be shed. It’s never been my number one issue to be honest, more an annoyance it was sort of done as an afterthought, along with a thousand other things at the time when building my...

my boiler is set to high (need to turn it down now we have warmer weather) so sits steady at say 87 when heating the hwc etc (usually I set it to around 70-77 degrees or lower, anyway...) and when the overrun comes on it can increase to say 90 or 91 in the first minute or two and then it comes...

I could do it yes, YOU said it was a simpler solution :P :D Attaching some extruded alu to the copper is looking like plan A......

lol - my wife said that to me earlier today. I think she’s either a genius or has a part time job as a plumber :) Thing is, as you may know, the motorised valve when open calls the boiler to come on. So it’s not that straightforward. Not impossible but not “simple” NOTE: one post I read...

Worcester 40CDi Conventional I’ve had it for, what is it now, over 13 years and it’s still working great. I’ve had the PCB replaced by Worcester once I think. But the heat exchanger seems fine (even though the Worcester engineer told me categorically that “the heat exchanger is knackered...

maybe you’re right, but I always thought the idea was to bring down the temp slowly of the exchanger and then switch off when temp is lowered my post was also to elicit replies like yours, questioning the premise of what I’m trying to do. Because yeah, maybe I don’t quite get the point of overrun

I’ve completely redone my entire house and more than doubled the size of it. After years of playing around with endless rads (I had 28. I’m lucky enough to have a very large detached 6 bed house, though I did build most of it!) I decided this time I’d install all ufh. Up and down stairs! I had...

Yep, see the 3 options I stated in my first post. I suppose I was looking for more elegant solutions rather than a “hack” :) See the eBay link in above reply I made. Something like that might be the solution. Dunno

Reckon this might be the least worst option. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SK-623-50-AL-Heatsink-extruded-grilled-natural-L-50mm-W-174mm-H-75-5mm-FISCH-/193743506350?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 attaching this to the bypass part of the circuit so that in normal situations it doesn’t “waste...

see other reply, it’s not controlled by the boiler pcb The issue is not electrical, that all works fine. It’s water based issue and the water not giving up its heat. yes I can run the overrun pump for longer but what concerned me is the temp doesn’t drop as fast as it previously did (for the...

no, it isn’t controlled by the boiler PCB It’s controlled by a dedicated relay in my system. The electrical side is completely under my control. I can run it for as long as I want by changing the delay settings on the relay.

I certainly do not have a preferred solution in mind. So you’ve drawn the wrong inference. My post really was to ask some experts/someone with more experience/someone who has faced this problem and has a clever solution, to suggest something new to me. Or to suggestion a better amendment to my...

I used 20mm high blue insulated panels that had precut grooves for the pipe (I used a mix of 12mm and 16mm) and then covered with self levelling (SF or Wickes etc) and then either tiles or wood glued down this allows me to add the absolute minimum height to my floors, without cutting the...

I have a complicated/big system. 3 pumps and a mix of ufh, a few rads and an indirect HWC using a Worcester Conventional With recent help from some guys on here I’ve got it working almost perfectly....the pump overun “works”, but doesn’t dissipate enough heat quickly enough to actually be of...

I did. And over the past 20y I’ve talked to many who have. On forums like this and others. And I suppose it could be used by the (one man band) professionals too.

Do you know anything about plumbing? I assume so. Think about the things that would be helpful when designing and planning a new system. Especially a more complex system. The calcs etc I’ve said too much ....

I had an idea for writing a software for the DIYer. To plan and calculate their plumbing for their homes. Both potable and heating. I suppose I’d better not say too much about the proposed functionality (unless someone beats me to it ) but is this a fool’s errand ? Does such software already...

Good point. the last circuit was our new living room (6.5x5) with 16mm ufh pipe and 2 circuits of ( I think) 160m in total. Hence the (6.5x5x~100kw/m) = ~ 3.2kw thanks for your help. Greatly appreciated

Thank you! Very kind to reply again. And thanks for the answers, that really helps me figure this out. I will check the set max temp (from memory it’s 88 from what I remember in the engineer/installer manual) FYI since my earlier post the boiler has been on constantly. No cycling. Woohoo!! And...