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Have you tried increasing the pump rate?

has the heating engineer done anything to the pump?

Now, have you got this solid oak flooring in all rooms?

Is it too big a job for you to have a flow and return pipe fitted. With a single loop you are always going to have a problem with the rads at the end of the line being much cooler than at the start, so, i suggest if you run the other rads closer to the boiler via an earlier T, you are likely...

Are all your TRVs set correctly and have you balanced the system as best you can?

Presumably everything is being run (including thje UFH) off the boilers CH? If this is the case, have you measured the output in KW of your system requirements against what your system can actually achieve?

You should always be aiming to have an incline on the waste pipe, otherwise gravity won't really be helping you out very much. You also want to have as little pipework to the main outlet as possible. If the waste pipe was pulling it over, why didn't you fit the trap to the bath and then...

In which case, use the shallow p-trap and repipe down to the grey elbow. You might want to support the pipework a bit to prevent that sagging effect too.

Water softener, follow the boiler manufacturers advice. If anything were to go wrong and they looked into it, your warranty could be void. As far as the rads are concerned.... How many rads in total? What boiler do you have?

Installing a standard P trap on your arrangement should only need an extention piece on the pipe with the straight coupling on it, that way you will be able to sort the fall out and straighten the pipework out on the trap.

You can just see the overflow pipe coming into the black fitting.

Sounds like the diaphragm on the flush valve isn't seating back properly gone on the bottom of the tank. have you checked it to see if it has some trapped crud?

Thanks for the sarcasm, but, I was just trying to point out that if you ask a question but aren't around to answer back, people will lose interest in your problem.... perhaps I could have gone about it a different way. Life gets in the way of forums... lol. Again, your pump has been installed...

What about installing a globe valve or PRV to reduce the pressure on the line?

Then it will be a problem with the air, which the little aav should sort out for you.

Recess the wall plate elbow into the plaster board to create the desired gap? Rather than backing any fittings off, which will most probably result in leaks that you cannot deal with, try and get the distance you need out of the wall. What gap do you need?

It's not a bad idea, it would just be a better arrangement to have individual waste pipework, but that's hardy practical in most instances. Have you made sure that it's not a blocked / clogged up drain line or anything else before you go about alterning the pipework?

What was the pump installed for? A shower? Also, if you are asking questions and want an answer, don't leave it half a month to answer peoples posts. What height difference is there from the tank to the pump? Are you sure it has been installed with enough head? Have you read the...

Have you looked at the pipework arrangement underneath the bath? There might be two isolating valves that will cut off the supply to the bath, allowing you to modify the pipework without shutting away the supplies to else where. Personally, since the pipework only has to feed the hot and...

Apologies, I miss understood you. Firstly then, where does the wall plate to shower head / bath filler seal? On the threads, on tape, no an o-ring or a washer?