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Generally they are located by the window to counteract the cold, so it's up to you where you put it, but if that double rad isn't feeling very warm, i suggest that you need to look at the system set up rather than moving the rad first. I wouldn't put the rad there. Heat will be lost heating...

If you are only bothered with looks, then I say go for it, but you will probably be a bit cooler in the hallway. Make sure you get a column rad that is as close to the KW rating as the current rad you have

Flow and return can be fitted to either side of the rad, so long as they do indeed have a flow and return not flow>flow or return>return. You pipework layout will be fine, so long as you maintain the 22mm pipework main as long as you can up until it get's to the rad, then reduce down to 15mm...

As a start, I would check to see if your drain pipework is beginning to get clogged up, causing the water to back up into the air admittance valve. With a decent sized drain line and assuming the AAV is functioning correctly, there shouldn't be an issue, so I assume your drain is getting...

It shouldn't have any water where the valve is. I assume it is this: - http://www.mcalpineplumbing.com/anti-syphon-traps

I assume you mean leaking from the bottom of the trap, not valve? Just try tighening the bottom up a bit more and see if that works. If not, replace the trap with a new McApline one, it doesn't cost alot and they are good quality.

Depending on if the thread on the gate valve is 1/2" or 3/4", you will also need either this: - http://www.screwfix.com/p/female-coupler-15mm-x/93992 or this http://www.screwfix.com/p/female-coupler-15mm-x/38542 you will then be able to fit the double check valve, a stub piece of...

That is not a double check valve! Let me see if I can imagine whats going on there: - You have a stop cock (a gate valve) that has a male 3/4" BSPP thread on it that is currently fitted internally. This supplies the tap with water and nothing else? You want to use the tap kit, which...

If there is a straight length of pipework to go off, then this will be the trick to go from 15mm pipe to 3/4" male. Although, those tap kits are carp. Remember, you need to install a double check valve on the pipe run, before the pipe exits the building to the outdoor tap. an outdoor...

http://www.screwfix.com/p/male-coupler-15mm-x/82086

You can get backnut and washer sets on ebay and all sorts of places. Just check that it's 3/4" inlets, which they should be if it's for the bath. If you are buying a new tap, it should come with it though.

wrong post

:lol: wrong post

Was this installed recently or quite some time ago? Either way, the manufacturer should have an MI, which will detail the parts included in the installation. Find the details of the rubber washers you are missing and that will be a start. I assume you mean it is leaking down from the mixer...

Get the boiler serviced and get the gas safe boiler engineer to take a look at the ignition problem. He may be able to sort the issue as part of the service, if you explain your issue prior to him arriving.

Faith in humanity once more :D

I would have though the problem would come when the lime was depleted and the acid in the condensate started eating away at what even else it came into contact with?

As stated above, if you ever need to do mods to the bathroom, like install a different shower / bath, you are going to wish you kept those tiles.

Why not use something like a PVC edge lip, one that will cover the gap and look nice. It will give a decent finish and you can run a thin bead of sealant top and bottom?