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Is the pressure still dropping to 0bar, even after the over pressure? Also, what modle of duotech is it...28 ...40?

Model of pump? System set up?

You only need one stopcock in your property. And if you are re-running the pipework completely, choose an entry point that is best for you.

Fit a new stop tap once it enters your property. Perhaps you had a few because the old ones seized, or couldn't be located??? Anyway, fit a new stopcock, at least you know it's new and not in dire need of maintenance. Are you sure you conveyed to Thames Water that you will be running...

I think your waste pipe connections are too close as it stand for a P-trap to be fitted. You might be able to fit a bottle trap and a tight 90 bend straight afterwards, but you will really need to get the measurments right. If you are likely to have the new basin waste in the same...

Well, given that we have no idea what connections are on your new tap, or how you intend to run the new waste pipe, it's a bit of an assumption :lol: I don't see a problem with what you suggest, but it does depend on the connections to the tap as to exactly how you go about connecting...

If you are replacing the pipework for the incoming mains, it must be at least 750mm deep and no more that 1350mm if you don't want to work outside of the normal requirements. I believe you can vary from this but you must contact your water undertaker first and wait for their response. The...

Do all your hidden pipework in copper soldered. What do you mean 'substitute the bath supplies for plastic? Change all the pipework or T off and go from there in plastic? Personally I would do the lot in copper soldered. You will be less likely to have to go back to a leaking joint that way.

Does your kitchen sink drain into a gully or into a stack of some sort? You could rod through the drain pipework after the trap? Got a picture of your set up? What size it the pipework? Have you used any corrosive cleaner? How long has it been an issue?

The compression fittings don't really need it since it seals on the olive / pipe but it's more of a best practice approach really. Just a little smear around the olive. Hope it all goes well. TT

I will be getting some pictures and post them here. I am trying to get hold of a bloody big ladder so I can see the full extent of the damage. I know I have to get some roof work done soon because the lead flashing on the chimney has come away in one area, I will try and get a good photo...

If it's threaded, you will want to use some PTFE tape. Compression fittings (olive type) would need a bit of paste.

Pictures aren't showing.

This old thread has some interesting info. You may find your answer in here. http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51136

10mm is 5mm smaller that 15mm :lol: There are two types, just get the one that suits your pipe size. :D

If it is the cartridge, you could get in touch with bathstore and ask them about the replacement part and where to get it from. It should only be about £35 and be an easy fix. In the mean time, you could soak the cartridge in hot water (just off boiling) and vinagar for a while to loosen...

Have you noticed this straight after your power flush or before? https://www.emergencyplumber.uk.com/plumbing/central-heating-pump-problems/

How do you know if there is any debris inside it? The thermostatic cartridge is a sealed unit! The service valves are the valve you use to isolate the hot / cold water. Shutting off the supply so you can 'service' the parts upstream.

I assume you have 15mm pipework: - http://www.screwfix.com/p/danfoss-ras-c-white-chrome-trv-lockshield-15mm-angled/49331 Have a read of some reviews but this is a fairly well rated model.

I doubt it. You are receiving good hot water pressure at all other outlets. Plus, you have had 6 months of trouble free showering, so if the shower / DHW pressure were not compatible, you would have realised it immediately. Have you removed the cartridge and had a look at it? I assume...