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I was once doing some work in a property that had a smart meter in the kitchen in which we where working. It kept jumping from 300w up to 2kw and back again every few minutes!!! We had no idea why, the house was empty expect for us and we wasn't using anything high draw..

Try pushing down on the bonnet while you try and turn the key. Probably hasn't been greased enough in its life.

That wasn't for you mate. ..but thanks.. :P

:roll:

If it's armoured, put it in a tree if you want.

Well that was my thinking, but I don't know the boiler.

Where does it say he's done that?

Looks like doors at an angle at the bottom.

I'm assuming it doesn't do this from cold. What's the temp difference between flow and return?

I thought a Liner was mandatory? How is anyone supposed to know how tight a flue is without a full inspection, which of course you can't do without a camera.

I would still silicone the edges after you grout,they will crack.

Yup, pump and pipes up to zone valve get hot and supply to tank but Not return. Same for rad pipes, one loop got hot, the others did not. Is something wrong, or is it just air.

Nobody?

That's me.. It's oil, boiler was already in situ.

Following on from this post.. http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/new-central-heating-install.426306/ I have finally got round to getting the system wired and plumbed. Currently the rad loops are all joined/looped together part from the bathroom towel rails (x2) None of...

...or just paint it?..

You can get 22mm 15mm 15mm tees, this may help?

It's not.... It's balancing. Some rads may only need opening qtr turn.

:? To clarify, you need to turn off all your upstairs rads, so they don't get hot. Also turn off the hot water. Fire up the heating and leave it on, for as long as you need. Do the downstairs rads get hot? Or just stay warm.

You need to leave it longer.