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If tanking on plasterboard fails the plasterboard will deteriorate. If tanking on cement board fails the cement board will not deteriorate. Whilst the cement board will not itself deteriorate when wet it will wick and absorb moisture throughout itself whereupon it comes into contact with stud...

So weight issue aside (12mm porcelain is around 32kg/m2) tanked Hardie is superior to untanked Hardie. And weight issue aside if the tanking is done to the correct standard then the water-resistant properties of Hardie become redundant (because the substrate doesn't come into contact with...

I can't see how it can be. What would Hardie recommend in a wet room? Tanking of course. https://www.firstclasswetrooms.co.uk/whytank

6mm no more ply, glued and screwed. Ply is old school. There are better ways now. Flexible (cement based) adhesive and grout.

Where does it evaporate to? It can either go back out (into the void in the stud wall - this is bad) or out the way it came (this is good). Tanking would make the latter the only option. See above. A tanking kit is less than £50...

If moisture can get into your boards it can presumably travel through them (into the studs). If moisture can travel through tile and grout inwardly it must also be able to travel outwardly and evaporate. What is needed in wet areas is a barrier. Tanking. And you might as well tank onto the...

4mm notch is good for the mosaics. Too thick a bed and the adhesive will ooze out of your grout gaps. Once laid press them home with a grout float.

PVA any exposed brickwork and apply bonding or hardwall to bring it flush. You are not technically supposed to tile onto backing plaster so you should really give the area a skim with multi finish prior to tiling. Finish plaster will dry in 2 or 3 days. Bonding will depend on the thickness but...

Can you not find an alternative board with an equivalent uValue?

No it's not absolutely necessary. Would I recommend you remove the laths? Yes.

Can't quite see the point of putting hardboard down. You'd be better with a cement board (6mm no more ply glued and screwed). And PVA should never be used when tiling. Acrylic or SBR.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/energer-enb522tcb-450w-tile-cutter-240v/61123 Or you could do them with a diamond wheel on a grinder.

Dab on some plasterboard and skim.

I've no idea if that is a suitable surface to tile onto. Personally I'd spend the extra £40 for a proven product.

Hardie backer and MR plasterboard are moisture resistant. i.e. they won't degrade when wet. They are not waterproof. If you want waterproof (which you should in a shower enclosure) you should consider tanking. This is the kit I use on all of my installations...

Well I've posted you a link to a youtube video that shows how it's easy for an amateur to get professional results with silicone.

An SDS drill with a tile removal bit ;)

If he had concerns about the quality of the product (in terms of the tiles being different dimensions) he should have raised it with you as soon as he noticed and not continued. Can you post a pic? Sounds like you're also suffering from some lipage. This can be massively reduced by using a...

Why not dispense with the quadrant all together and run a neat 6mm bead of silicone? Easy to get a professional finish with a Fugi / Fugenboy.

It's moisture resistant. It's not waterproof. I'm sure you do cracking work fella, I'm not here to criticise your methods of working. But for an extra £60 on an install (less the expense of the cement board so negligible) I'd rather offer my clients a completely waterproof shower area/wet room.