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Yes, it's an ambitious plan. The property is cold and smells damp. Once the floor is up I'll investigate the reasons for that. In any case the floor will require insulating and UFH I hope will give more layout opportunities and a more even heat.

For the insulation, I can put a batten at the bottom of each joist and slot the board down onto those. One problem to solve is getting the joists level. Near the doorway into the hall the floor boards are nearly at the level of the finished floor. I'll need to get the floor up fully to...

I checked with a UFH manufacturer and their between joist screed system would allow for putting these boards on top. Where would I put the damp course in this configuration?

Thanks, entering "tongue and groove cement board" located these: https://www.tilingsuppliesdirect.co.uk/product/no-more-ply-tongue-groove-board-18mm-22mm This would be far better for heat transfer and as you mention can replace the original floor boards. This would work with a between joists...

It's a good point - 13 tonnes is a lot of fill to move by hand. I spoke to a couple of companies last month but no one mentioned using cement board for the sub floor.

One more idea, could I arrange a 100mm lower floor using joist hangers and put a screed on top of that ? One person I spoke to fixed plates to the walls and hung joists if that to set the floor slightly lower. He also put a steel beam below that, I believe I have a dwarf wall.

Yep. However the previous concerns were mainly about the amount of fill and I've got accurate figures on that part now. The problem with the between joists UFH system is that they only output up to 70w/m2. I would guess this is because you put wood on top which is an insulator. With a filled...

Hi all, I am revisiting my plan discussed here https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/filling-void-under-suspended-floor.615142/ to fill my suspended floor. I dropped a tape down into the floor and found that from the bottom to the top of the finished floor is 700mm. What I am thinking: 700mm -...

I've run the calculations on the room and it needs 2kw. Living room Height = 2.6m Width = 4.0m Length = 4.2m Outside Walls = 2 Outside Wall Construction=220mm solid brick Windows = Plastic double glazed. Below room = Soil under wooden floor Above room = Heated room 1990w 6791 BTU 2000w /...

I am thinking about installing between joist UFH in an old 1930's house with 200mm solid walls. The room I am looking to fit it to is as follows: 18m2 floor space 2.6m height 2 external walls one which contains a large bay window which has pretty crap efficiency due to metal internal spacer...

Hi, yes it will be concreted thermal mass with a ceramic tile on top. Do you put a Tado TRV on each zone of the manifold? I know you can set the Tado to have the measurement come from the wall stat and use the TRV to actuate the valve only for radiators. Not sure if this is the same for UFH...

Thanks. Having it all controlled by Tado would make it easier as it is all controlled via one app. I understand how the Tado TRVs work and that I would need wall thermostats for each zone. But what would actuate the actual valve to supply water to a specific rooms circuit?

I am planning an extension and a rework of the heating system. The house currently has a combi boiler, radiators in every room with a Tado TRV system (which has worked really well for the last 5 years). The proposed system will be a system boiler, water tank to support two bathrooms and...

I was told there was a change coming into law later this year where by the person who drew the plans had to ensure that what was built matched the plans. RIBA were advising members to charge a 1% fee of total project costs to cover this work. The architect I spoke to said that this fee would go...

I would like to get opinions on if I need an architect, or an architectural technician for my proposed extension. The house is a 1930's detached very typical of many houses built in the interwar period between 1920 and 1938. This picture is not the actual house but you get the general idea...

I can't recall the price of the unit but it seemed expensive with labour vs replacing 10+ year old unit which may have been getting towards end of life.

I believe so. The last engineer tried to clean it out a very flat sort of brush in between the internal fins. That presumably dislodged material as it made things worse.

For anyone finding this with a similar noise from their boiler the problem was a blocked heat exchanger. The boiler had been serviced but the engineer had not cleaned out the heat exchanger and it had become blocked. In the end it was impossible to unblock it and I had to get a new boiler...

I've got a 48 zone Galaxy dimension and have a question in regard to panic button wiring. I was thinking of getting one of these CQR panic buttons: https://cqr.co.uk/shop/intruder/panic-buttons/double-push-intruder/cqr-padp3_wh_m-push-button/ The spec. sheet says that is 24v and I am sure my...

Hi all, Does anyone understand the purpose of the intruder 04 output function on a Galaxy Dimenion? According to the output functions table (page 6-91 of the manual I have), this function is only activated when the alarm is fully set. If I part set the alarm, then this output function is not...