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this is what i thought rocky but a few posts suggest that the supply side of the switches should be rated to the 32a that the ring is rated too personally im happy with the way im going to carry out the installation now thanks for your help

thanks for the replys, i have also noticed some disagreement on other forums and post about using 20dp switches on a 32a ring what are your views on this?

the ring will have 2 double sockets then the grid then another double socket and bk to the cu

if i use a 8 way with fuses ill have 2 13a fuses on all the appliances surely this is not needed? with respect to the load all coming from the same place is it not just the same as having 4 sockets in a ring and spuring off each one? or because the load is so close toghter do you think there...

iv decided to use a grid switch set up for the appliances in my kitchen im going to bring my incoming ring into first switch and then loop in other switches using 2.5mm singles is this considered ok? im goin to run my2.5mm cable then from each dp switch to a single unswitched socket by the...

ok think im going to use the grid switch idea with 20 dp switches for each appliance and a single unswitched socket off each switch in the grid and i will run this through the ring?

iv seen these in new builds, do you know where you can get them from remember seeing them and they had the name of the appliance above each switch aswell?

thanks spark123 just dont want switches everywhere for all the appliances so would be happier to just go straight to the socket

when installing these appliances i want the sockets to be hidden away beneath the work surface is it ok to spur off the ring straight to the hidden socket or do i need to have a fcu above the work surface before it goes to the socket?

further to my questions i may be adding a double oven most of which need a 20a supply so therefore the oven would need its own dedicated supply?

cheers for that lads

sorry oven with seperate hob does what iv stated sound right for this, thinking i could do away with plug on oven alltoghther and just use a fused spur?

hi im installing a cooker with seperate hob i have a 6mm cable from cu to the cooker ccu, im planning to run a 6mm cable from this too a cooker connection plate connect the hob up from here and then run another 6mm cable from the connection plate to a single socket for the cooker to be connected...

hi, currently have a scratch coat on my house and want a travertine finish on the final coat, im planning to use 6mm paticles to get the finish my question is are the particles added when mixing and if so what is the ratio? thanks Nick

ok thanks guys guess ill geta few more quotes if the price is still on the high side ill fit it myself cant c it taking more than 2 hours. thanks again

iv had 2 quotes 1 at £250 and 1 at £450 couldnt understand the difference in price just looking for some views but if u cant help fair enough!

hi, recently finished re-wiring my house what price range would i be looking at for supply and fit of a 8 way split load cu and test of the circuits? thanks Nick

the cpc on the daisy chain will in effect then be doing nothing it wont be earthing the lights still just means a hell of a lot of extra connections, continuity on the daisy chain could easily be acheived in the future if class 1 fitting were used does anybody agree or am i completely in the wrong?

i hear what u r saying but i have 18 downlights in total downstairs in three rooms dont really want 2 have 18 small jb's! in the ceiling i was thinking of using a ashley j501 jb and leaving by 1 downlight in each room and then daisy chaining in and out of lights with twin + e with the earth cut...

sorry bout all the questions lately just want to get this installation right. with regard to my downlighters which are double insulated what do i do with regards to the earth, i know your not suppossed to cut it back but there is no room in the termination box of the downlight to leave it...