Search results

  1. L

    Boiler recommendation help

    Hello, I need a new boiler. I did manage to fix the divertor valve on my old Worcester, but now something else has gone wrong. Given that it's undersized, and has a leak, I figure it's finally time to put it to rest. So, my friendly installer recommends either the Vaillant 831 or 837...
  2. L

    Worcester 24cdi: low hot water flow rate

    I undid it several turns, and there was a click. My assumption is that there is a stop to stop you removing it completely, and I had reached "fully open" already. I measerued the flow rate before and after (crudely with a 1l jug), and there was no difference - about 10s, or I suppose about 6l...
  3. L

    Worcester 24cdi: low hot water flow rate

    is the nut you refer to the one I circled in the picture below? Is it possible to take it all the way off and spit water everywhere?
  4. Untitled

    Untitled

  5. stuff

    stuff

  6. L

    Worcester 24cdi: low hot water flow rate

    I cleaned the filter on the div valve when I replaced the diaphragm, but I didn't touch the nut. In fact, I don't even remember seeing it :-) I'll give it a go and report back - thanks for the tip.
  7. L

    Worcester 24cdi: low hot water flow rate

    Hi all, I have a Worcester Bosch 24cdi. Earlier on this year I had the hot ware heat exchanger replaced, I honestly can't remember the problem now, but it was freezing cold, the boiler wasn't working, and we had plumbers on site already due to other building works, so I just let them get on...
  8. L

    Existing wired in doorbell - is it safe/ ok for Part P?

    Thanks all. My consumer unit has RCD protection, and I think my electrician said 100mA (although I can't see that written anywhere) - is that enough? Cables are not 50mm into the walls though, that's for sure. I'm just extending them upwards from where they are (by pulling existing cable...
  9. L

    Existing wired in doorbell - is it safe/ ok for Part P?

    Hi there, I'm slowly going around my house channelling in plug sockets that are currently installed in plastic boxes on the skirting boards. As far as I know, it's fine to do this without getting an electrician involved. One I've come across is a spur, and then from the spur, a 12v...
  10. L

    Need to make some very long bookshelves - advice needed!If

    That Torsion box is a fancy version of what I was talking about! I don't have the tools to make one as neat as that (no router, for a start). Something I was thinking of was making some dividers for the bottom shelf that would also support the top shelf, and then using brackets to support the...
  11. L

    Need to make some very long bookshelves - advice needed!If

    Hi all, I need to make some long book shelves. At one end I can support the with 2x1 on the wall, but the other end will be open. The wall is an internal brick wall. I was going to make them 2440mm long, as that seems to be the longest continuous length piece of either MDF or ply I can...
  12. L

    Existing bathroom wiring - is it dangerous?

    That's exactly it - sheath stripped back to far. Nothing I can't tidy up though. Thanks - in my last house I had an electrician wire up my new bathroom, and he said fireguards were required under building regs - is that not the case (it is just a loft). Fireguards seem a good way of keepint...
  13. L

    Existing bathroom wiring - is it dangerous?

    Hi all, I moved into my current house back in August, and there's a lot of 'DIY' evident around the place. Most of it doesn't bother me, as over time I can fix it (most of it is poor carpentry or decoration), however having recently explored the loft prior to re-insulating and partial...
  14. L

    PAtching a bit of render

    that's what it looks like to me
  15. L

    PAtching a bit of render

    I don't know. I'm afraid I'm a total novice. How would I tell? Leon
  16. L

    PAtching a bit of render

    Hello all, I have briked up a small hole where an extractor fan used to be. The rest of the wall is rendered with that stuff that you spray on and looks like readybreak (sorry, I don't know what it's really called). Anyway, I need to patch it up now. I don't expect it to look perfect by...
  17. L

    Joining an Oak worktop

    Hi Scrit - don't worry your post came across just fine to me! To be honest I'm not that bothered about having real wood at all, but it's not down to me. The misses wants real wood, so that's what she'll get! I think the beech is too similair a colour to the oak doors, and will clash unless...
  18. L

    Joining an Oak worktop

    interesting - I didn't know that about the tannin. I was choosing the oak, because the doors are oak, and my wife insists on a 'wooden' (or fake wood) worktop. I think the laminate will look daft next to the real oak, hence going for the matching OAK worktop. I'm not convinced I have the...
  19. L

    Joining an Oak worktop

    Hi All, I'm fitting a new kitchen, and was going to fit an oak worktop. The IKEA ones seem like good value, and match my units (also from IKEA), however I need a run approx 2700mm long, and their longest length is 2470mm. I'll have an offcut from another pice which I can use to 'fill the...
Back
Top