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Great, I'll try and dig it out a bit further as there is a small chance that it is contained but just full of mud - but I'd be surprised at this point I reckon it was designed as soak away.

I'm planning on installing 2 coats of epoxy primer: https://www.resincoat.co.uk/en/primers/294-resincoat-damp-tolerant-epoxy-primer.html Which as per the website says: > when two coats are applied this system can act as an effective damp proof membrane helping to prevent rising damp and other...

Just so I am on the right page, we're saying put an impermeable container into the hole to create a sump into which liquids can collect and then but pumped out? This would not be perforated to allow said liquids to soak away into the surround soil, as I believe they do right now - or have I got...

I assume you're referring the "sump" here? I'll measure it tonight, could always find the biggest size PVC pipe that'll find in the whole, dig it down a foot a and cement it in.

Yeah, thing is the pit was in before a ramp went it. Which has largely, but not entirely superseded its use. Not sure how much I'd want to be mopping engine out into the soak away and thus earth... although i am sure lots has gone down there in the past.

I was going to ventilate with an extractor fan and PVC pipe cut into the boards that cover the pit when not in use. Should probably have added that to my above spec'. I will mull over the idea of keeping the soak away thing. As I see it if I do my job right it shouldn't be needed and would...

Inspection pit when clear but not cleaned Picture of state of wall finish Picture after cleaning out and some drying Where the worst of the water is getting in The soak away/sink thing

Apologies if this is the wrong sub-forum, mod feel free to move this post. I have unearthed the inspection pit in my workshop for the first time since taking it over. It was very damp and puddles on the floor. The walls are made from concrete blocks and the floor is a concrete slab; the latter...

Thanks some good details there. Epoxy primer will be sprayed on because I've already got said primer and setup to spray (automotive work). Yeah I could work a rust converter into the pits and then sand the surface one last time (it won't get into the pits but I'd rather the epoxy bond to the...

The last lot of builders I had in used self-threaded concrete fixing for just about everything, saving them from having to mess around with rawl plugs. They seem pretty nifty. Obviously you're not going to hang a picture frame up with them, but for other stuff they seem ideal - like fixing stud...

I am fairly certain its an I-bean on its side with the 'wings' of the I then straddling the block work above and below. The only reason I think it does that is to stop the "false" cavity from toppling inwards as it has no wall ties with the old stone work (or last I doubt it does) and is just on...

I'm not entirely sure. But the building is a solid stone/rubble wall construction. This particular wall has been turned into a retaining wall (not by me!) and then lined a secondary block wall to effectively retrofit a cavity. I'm not sure why it needs steels (I think there is one on each...

I have a plaster concrete block wall which has a steel running through it; this has been plastered over. Over time the steel, under the plaster, has developed a surface rust and you could see where, even through the plaster and paint, and a crack had formed on the lower edge. I have stripped...

I like that, but I am actually wanting real wood up there. I was going to go with British Cedar. I'm looking into fire retardant coatings, and will also use plasterboard under as advised above.

Thanks, that's a good idea.

1970s is what I am going for ;)

I am creating a vaulted ceiling, rigid board insulation will be fixed on top of the rafters (forming an air gap with the slates). I'd like the final ceiling finish to be tongue and groove wood cladding. Probably running vertically, rather than horizontally. I'm just not sure how I'd go about...

The reason for wanting to bolt rather than nail is because this is going onto to an existing roof and I don't really want to disturb the slates and ageing felt by hammering away at the rafters. I feel more comfortable drilling and bolting and taking my time with it that way. Will be a lot...

I'm bolting some roof timbers together, specifically collar ties to rafters. What is the absolute most belt and brace/foolproof way to do this? So far I am looking at Stainless M12 Hex head + M12 Square washers + with a dog tooth washer between the timbers. I also considered coachbolts /...

Thanks, not sure on the brand but was told both have swiss bar and 28mm. One has come in at 1.9U and the other 1.4. Does feel low compared to what else there might be out there. i've made my mind up anyway and I am getting them in clear.