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I was actually going to go get the 9x9x3 galvanised one, but this is fine too. Can you recommend a wholesaler that sells din rail and modules in small quantities? I can only find it from RS online, and would rather just go buy some cause I'm in a hurry to get it done

Thanks, I've decided I'm either going to add two more boxes above the two that are there, so I have one box for boiler/underfloor heating, one for hot water, and two for each additional zone valve I'm adding, bridging between the boxes with live, neutral and switched live only. OR change them...

I've never crimped cables before

that did actually cheer me up for a minute lol

sorry, I'm a little frustrated with this project at the moment, nothing is easy lol. I guess i'm looking for some miracle way of neatly connecting the wires in smaller boxes, rather than a huge box/wiring centre that you won't be able to open cause there's pipes in the way.

this is what I'd ideally like to use, but there just isn't enough space in the cupboard for a huge box, and the cables aren't long enough. I hate my life.

you should know that I am working in a 1ftx1ft confined space around a corner on my hands and knees, with various pipes in the way of my head, desperately trying to get this done as quickly and cheaply as possible lol

the type that accepts stranded cables is a maximum of 5 ports. However, it says each port can accept a 4mm cable. Would it be feasible to connect two 0.75mm flex cables into each port do you think? It would be very neat for all my neutrals/earths, but not sure if you can do that

Problem is, there's no slack on the existing cables, and there's only a short amount of wire to work with, (the wires aren't long enough to be spaced out in a conventional big wiring centre you see), that's why I'm using two or three smaller boxes. Yes, I have connected the earths in each box...

Hi, I'm making some modifications to my central heating and hot water system in a cupboard. The old 'wiring centre' was a single gang plastic pattress box, which was pretty scary and literally crammed full with wires. Conventional wiring centres don't have enough space, so I've put in two...

anti-syphon traps only let air in, they don't let air out, that would be smelly! I've already said the bathroom is finished, I can't rip out the bath, toilet and shower to install new traps, but I can vent the 40mm drain to the roof effortlessly, just want to know if it will work

It's an industrial sized washer with a 40mm drain hose, so it's probably a similar flow of water to flushing a toilet. There aren't air bubbles, just turbulence, I know what you mean about a blockage, I'll check the manholes, but, probably the reason is that the manholes are all the screwed-shut...

There is one soil stack that serves everything, and there is no air behind water, so, when the washing machine is draining downstairs, it is displacing air in the soil stack, causing turbulence in the toilet upstairs. If you flush the toilet whilst the bath is draining, it's like a bottle...

Hi, A few years ago, some building work was done, and the plumber ran all new drains to the kitchen and bathroom, including a soil stack. However, I've realized that he didn't put a vent on the soil pipe (not even an AAV). The stack is last on the line of the drains. Obviously, there's...

Thanks. Is it the kind of lightweight filler like the deep gap filler (the grey polyfilla, its almost like mouse)? So, make the crack bigger, pva, fill with lightweight filler, allow to set, then tape and mud as you usually would ontop of that. The sheet rock is nailed to the ceiling joists, so...

Hi, I have a room where there is a hairline crack which runs around the entire ceiling about a foot from the wall. This corresponds with joins in the sheet rock. It is 50's construction, it has been plaster skimmed all over but there is no hessian tape over the joins apart from wall corners...