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They're not needed for this dimmer switch. Some dimmers use a neutral, but they aren't that common.

Just popular usage for almost any sort of reflector. A true "spot" has a very specific beam angle, narrower than most people would want for general lighting, but even what that beam angle is varies between different bulbs, who you talk to, and how many pints they've had.

It seems to be increasingly common to use the GU5.3 terminology. I don't know if it is coming from overseas, association with the ubiquitous GU10s, or something else. In the sense of retro-fit LED lamps, it may even be appropriate since they certainly aren't multi-faceted reflectors and some of...

Exactly! There might be faults with the boiler, but that bill isn't caused by it simply turning on when it isn't supposed to. Look elsewhere. Stop flailing and find out where the problem really is instead of guessing random problems and hoping that is what is going on. With a thermostat and...

I've often imagined how dumb we're going to feel when tidal or fusion or something else makes electricity so cheap and green that we'll be glad to heat our homes with lots of 100W filaments in glass globes, far more eco-friendly than those gas-guzzling boilers :LOL:

I'm surprised they're still available. The EU has finally got round to banning magnetic ballasts for fluorescents this year and these transformers are really no different in terms of pumping out useless heat into the ceiling.

Yes, the biggest trouble is with 12V LEDs. Unless you get the compatibility between dimmer, driver, and lamp exactly right then it may flicker, not dim smoothly, not dim at all, or not even light. Mains voltage lamps are less trouble, but you can still have problems depending on the type of...

I've got one :) A big old lump literally from a previous century driving a bunch of 12V lamps. More compatible with LED lamps than many electronic bricks, but still can't dim them very well.

Possibly the LED "spots" do not have a very good beam? Many have a very wide flood, just the basic 120 degree LED spread, which aren't great for reading in the bath. I've found the prehistoric R63 spots to be good for this. Of course an alternative is just to fill the whole room with plenty of...

Someone asked about "bare" LEDs for use with constant current drivers. This seemed a slightly strange question to me, thinking I was on a different forum heavily focused on floodlights, flashlights (torches), lightbars, etc. where these are considered the norm. You won't find them in B&Q or Home...

I've missed a lot of the discussion but on the issue of AC or DC for MR16 and similar, this older thread may help: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?331265-MR16-Bulbs-use-12V-AC-or-DC In my experience the ones that say DC (a minority) mean it, DC only. The ones that say AC (a...

Integrated LED downlights are pretty fashionable at the moment, for some good reasons as well as bad, but you need to be fairly sure they're right before you buy. Not quite as simple (or cheap) as swapping out a 60W bulb for a 75W when your eyes start to go ;) I suspect they're a passing fad and...

Poor form though. Unless you're doing something like overloading the dimmer, a good quality unit shouldn't humm. Transformers on the other hand, you need to mix/n/match with some care to avoid buzzing at some level. As for LEDs, especially low voltage ones, you're just asking for trouble of some...

LED strips are inherently constant voltage, being a variable number (depending where you cut) of parallel mini-circuits with a small number of SMDs. That said, some of them have their own constant current circuitry built in, one or two small ICs for each group of LEDs - expensive though. Plenty...

See how much gas the meter says you're using. See if it matches the usage you just got billed for. If the billed usage bears no relation to what you appear to be using now, then start chasing meter readings to see what went wrong. Maybe someone dropped a decimal point? Read or wrote a digit...

New gas hobs auto-shutoff if the gas is not lit.

Check if the switched live is live. The connection of any external controls to the boiler is really very simple - one wire is either live or not. If the switched live wire is live then the boiler is doing what is expected and either your wiring is weird or the Hive is turning it live for some...

Look up the specs for the shower head. It should mention a flow rate (litres/minute) possibly a range that it will work with. Then look up the flow rate your boiler (or the one you're hoping for) can supply. Bear in mind that rate is for a particular temperature increase, which might mean you...

That's pretty much it. Regardless of other valid questions relating to the suitability (flow rate, house heating requirements, etc.) he said it was going to be a 35kW and you got a less powerful boiler. You specifically mention the one issue where a combi boiler really needs high power, the...

Probably an arbitrary maximum acceptable flow speed was multiplied up (or down) by the cross-section of the pipe. Looks like 1 m/s was chosen for this example.