Search results

Hi Echo & D_Hailsham, well water & heating working again, but still have a problem, the room stat works fine small blue light comes on with heat, goes off when temperature reached, but if I turn the heating off at the programmer a (flomasta two-channel programmer model 25902X the blue light on...

Hi, Echo, thanks for that info. I'm leaving it till Monday for now, we have a multi fuel stove for heating and I can sort the hot water. I am going to work on the "Y" plan I posted as you said.

Hi D_Hailsham, I'm changing some of the wiring because when I first set it up the old wiring was red for live black for earth. Over the years changing thing here and there with todays wiring brown & blue it's easy to make mistake's, so all to brown & blue now. I wired it all up to the SUNDIAL...

Hi Echo, the boiler is an Ideal Classic RS 40. I installed it about 22 years ago, never done one before just worked on drawings from someone I knew, and picking the brains of central heating company's, and it worked straight off. Worked fine since, just the odd problems when items went wrong...

Hi D_Hailsham, thanks for that. I'm going through the wiring today, and putting in some new wiring where I'm not happy to the "Y" plan as Echo and yourself have said. I think there is a problem with the "Y" plan I printed from the net, I think I have managed to attach a copy of the one I WAS...

Hi D_Hailsham, the old programmer is a Lifestyle Model LP522, there is a stamp on the back "JUL 2002". Older than I thought.

Hi, yes it is a new one but all the paperwork tells you is how to set it up when it's working, the trick is to know if your wiring is OK because they don't tell you a thing about wiring the back plate. I had just put the programmer into the Lifestyle back plate which is already wired up, and...

Hi Echo the husky, thanks for your response. I can understand most of the wiring what I don't find easy is which connections in the back plate is, C/W off H/W on CH off C/H on plus some of the connections in the back plate don't get wired to at all. Thanks.

Hi, back again any idea's. A Flomasta 25902SX Two Channel Programmer, 6 connections on the back plate N & L are obvious but 1 2 3 4 not so, a "Y" plan set up. Anyone know which of the 1 2 3 4 numbers goes to which numbers in the junction box, help please.

Hi All, thanks for all your help, everything now rewired to the "Y" plan and all working well. Thanks again to all of you.

Hi mogget, thanks for that I'll have a look at that site. I think I had decided as you also said it's going to be the "Y PLAN" the junction box seems to be 90% "Y PLAN", 4 or 5 wires in the wrong place. So "Y PLAN" its going to be. Thanks for everyone's help.

Hi Echo the husky, yes in full agreement, I think this system has been working " after a fashion " but not 100% as it should have been. I am today going to trace every wire from every item put it all on paper and try to work out what plan I should be on. Good luck to me.

Hi Echo the husky, & 45yearsagasman, this is my 3rd or 4th valve, 2nd programmer, heating coming on when not switched on, 3rd pump, and sometimes it knocks when the water comes on after it's been on heating. Looking at the "y" plan it seems the nearest to mine, 1 or 2 wires seem in the wrong...

Hi 45yearsagasman, I was going to do that but had a few problems & had to replace parts in the past, I would just like a diagram to check for peace of mind.

Hi muggles, I'm not happy with the wiring, had some problems on & off in the past that's why I would like to check the wiring to a diagram.

Hi, some help please. I am about to replace the Mid position 3 port valve in my setup. Should be straight forward but some of the wires seem to be in the wrong places, looking at wiring diagrams I seem to have a mixture of plans "C" "S" & "Y". I have these items. Ideal Classic Boiler Tower...

Hi stem, thought that would be the case. I have done this in the past. I used 2 rubber bungs to save draining down, 1 in each tank outlet then replaced the whole thing, a bit of a hairy way to do it but it worked. Thanks again.

Thanks muggles, not sure but the manual lever can be pulled across but it wont return, plus when the heating has been on then the water comes on with a bang and the hot water will not go off even with it off at the programmer and the stat.

Hi muggles, It's the Actuator once again, if I use Tower again it will be about the 4th or 5th one so I think its time to change. Thanks

Cheers stem, I was leaning that way, would you or anyone know if I could just replace the Actuator, if so which Honeywell model to use. Thanks again stem.