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Out of the box.... https://www.wifi-antennas.co.uk/wi-kit-01.html

Have worked with companies in London who have used those type of high gain antennas on tall buildings for line of sight connectivity and they are effective over distance but sometimes you can have these devices too close to each other and they become unpredictable. Looking at the environment...

Hi there, am looking to add a smart thermostat onto our Combi boiler but dont know if I need single or dual channel device. Our boiler is a Worcester 28i Junior and about 15 years old (so may need replacing in 18 months or so). The hot water is on demand and the heating is via a twice daily...

1m thick of what? Concrete!!! Is it an old bunker? If that is the case then your client is being unreasonable to expect a wireless signal to be sufficient and their opposition to running ethernet cable to site is headstrong and illogical. As others have stated, an ethernet cable in some small...

If you are going external Ethernet then go for good quality CAT6 and an external access point /aerial. Something like a...

After reading the above and the obstacles in your way (spearate meter hence no Powerlink, user doesnt want a cable running between the two buildings) then I would suggest a cable wireless access point within the main building and position the AP on the closest boundary to the remote building and...

Looks like my fitter from years back is not on his own then. For the sake of a few quid the notches on joists could have been better prepared and as this appears to be a common issue then it could have been easily avoided.

I am using "Mudfords flat hair felt pipe lagging" which came in a roll from Plumb Centre and was only £2.50 for 7m. Meant I could cut a length off and sling it under the pipe where I could get good access and then just slide it up to where it was resting on the joist and pad it out from the...

Well as the reason to lag the pipes where they come into contact with floor joists is to stop them making a noise then it seems successful. I have no aim to prevent heat loss from the run of the pipes. As mentioned in the OP, this was to minimise ticking of the pipes and not prevent heat loss.

This post couldnt have come at a better time. I have an older Worcester 28i boiler and was contemplating adding a smart thermostat to it (which is why this thread is very helpful) but I am also aware the boiler might need replacing in 12-18 months time so can the smart thermostat be moved...

They are located opposite our offices on the Birmingham Road, West Bromwich!!

Hi all I am having a right game with ticking pipes on our central heating, after lifting a few boards every pipe I have come across which has had the joists notched out has had no lagging at all - is the sign of a cowboy fitter or am I being a bit harsh?? I lagged all the pipes going across...

I thought about buying a gand strip when I was over there but in all honesty I am going to be butchering something that is going to cost me €10+ just for a plug and I have seen their EuroPlanet shops (same as our PoundLand) that sells the plugs for just €1 so if I can just replace the 3-pin then...

Excellent, thanks. Is there any difference with Spanish plugs/sockets or will that combo one work the same?

When going to the EU I tend to take a UK 3-pin gang strip (3 or 5 way with 1m flex) and plug it into the EU adapter - all good as it allows me to power / charge the mobile devices and laptop we take away. What I was looking to do is remove the 3-pin plug and wire in a 2-pin EU plug so I can...

Well just as a closure on this matter, spoke to Keylite and they suggested some stronger springs. This seemed to do the job. Easy to fit however evident that the manufacturer knows of the issue.

That looks like they could do the job!

The area is quite sheltered but I hear you about only putting the strut on one side etc. Hadn't thought of that problem. Keylite dangled a big ol'carrot mentioning stronger springs but can't get anything more out of them on that. Wondered if there were any window fitters out there that might...

I use 'a stick'. I see where you are coming from but the current stick application is more of an 'unlock and push open' sort of stick and not a 'prop open' stick. It has a hook on the end to open the locking mechanism and then you give it a shove to open the window however the window returns...

The stick would either need to be 14' long or if it was just a short stick to prop the window open then I would have to get up and down a ladder every time to put the stick in place. I like the simplicity however the practical application is lacking.