Search results

It's difficult to answer without seeing it. Yes cistern is held to pan by 2 wingnuts. The neatest and easiest way is to take the pan and cistern out, tile the wall and floor and put it back in again. Most times the waste on the pan is on a connector that would allow you to have the cistern 15...

Usually enough play to tile behind, you need to allow about 6-9 mm for most wall tiles or if using floor tiles on the wall allow 8-11mm plus about 4mm for adhesive. These are rough. Or take the loo out and put the cold water feed on a flexible hose, tile the wall and re-fit the loo again.

Don't worry, it's too late anyway :lol: but seriously...... what people try to do on here is recommend the best/ideal way to do things. It's not always possible to do everything 110% Bear in mind bucketed adhesive is fine for 20x20cm tiles, it's larger tiles where it is better to use cement...

It can be hard to get a flat/smooth surface to paint and look good. A plasterer will usually pva the walls before using a bonding coat then skim over the top.

As per gcol said and to add.... Polished porcelain tiles = require sealing Unpolished porcelain tiles = don't require sealing but it is optional depending on the tile (some should not be sealed) it can aid cleaning Glazed porcelain tiles = don't require sealing Bear in mind that...

Just hard work really, scraper and hard work.

Is Colchester too far? This company stocks HG products, I used to supply there Head Office in Norwich and there shop in Peterborough:- EGC Tiles, Colchester Unit 2, Cowdray Centre, Mason Road, Colchester, CO1 1BX :wink:

Where are you in the UK roughly and I will point you in the right direction

Gcol I am not wound up and can take a joke I am chilled 8) Merely responding to your comments with some stick as you have given me. I am not on here to promote my shop I have easier ways to do so other than giving free advice to people. Subject closed. Hump not taken :wink:

What do you mean exactly? Do you mean limescale or are the tiles darker in patches? If the patches vary then it may be water penetrating through the biscuit of the tiles to show patches in the glaze? If it is Limescale try HG Limex or Hagesan Blue (HG) Some marks will come off with...

I would just silicone the gap not grout and silicone as the grout may crack with the movement. If you run masking tape along the tray a few millimetres from the tiles and along the bottom of the tiles and then silicone, wipe the excess off with your finger then peel off the masking tape you...

I joined to help, added the signiature to promote the shop - yes but I would not join a forum and spend ages answering peoples queries to promote the shop to people who live so far away they are never likely to visit me anyway :roll: There are easier ways to promote a website :roll...

I have been told the tiles over 25x25cm rule by several people who should know, including the technical sales people at Norcros Adhesives (formerly BAL until they sold it) and of course the brand behind H&R Johnsons tiles. Cement based adhesives will set/harden even if immersed in water, try...

As per gcol but to add you could also user a grout sealer/protector such as SEALGUARD or even Thompsons water seal to waterproof the grout once you have done as gcol suggests.

Your first obvious issue is that the tiles are too big for bucketed adhesive. You should fix tiles larger than 25x25cm with a cement based adhesive which dries by chemical reaction rather than air as most bucketed adheisves dry. I would only recommend tiling with cement based polymer...

http://www.tiles.org.uk/directory/list.shtml?cat=type&list=fixer Try this for starters, there is also Pitt training and another company I think called PTS that train tilers. You could call and see your local tile shops and ask for a card of a tiler they recommend. Hope this helps.

Yes of course, thanks :wink:

link removed Surely I can post this? There seems to be a lot of use of BAL's site on the forum. For the record I have not sold BAL for 15 years, although it always used to be good.

"Not with a diamond holesaw it isn't - it wouldn't help at all." Yes you are quite right was thinking of a conventional drill / drilling when I typed it :roll:

Hi, use a core drill with diamond pieces, keep it cool by making a plasticine or Bluetack sausage to make a little pool of water within to drill (does that make sense?) If big holes are required it is easier to drill a pilot small hole then go bigger.