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Thanks, I wasn't aware of that. I take it that the method you mentioned wouldn't affect the air resistance as you still have 2 100mm ducts taking the steam etc out?

I thought initially the reducer would need to fit onto the external grille but now I'm wondering about it being attached to both ends of the ducting in the loft space where it would be easier to access (150mm one end & 100mm other end). Is that doable?

Thanks John, hope you're well. I'll suggest it to the fitter when we can pin him down. Best wishes Emma

Just as an afterthought how feasible would it be to just connect the reducer to the 150mm ducting (near the end of the run) and then run the 100mm ducting from it to the grille?

That's brilliant - thanks for your help. Could we just attach the 100mm ducting to the reducer with tape & cable ties? (The link mentions using a threaded hose connector).

Thanks. That sounds like a good solution. Would you mind putting a link in for the relevant parts involved as I wouldn't know where to start? Thanks so much.

We have an Icon 60 150mm extractor fan in the kitchen which uses 6 inch flexible ducting. The ducting needs replaced as it has a couple of holes which I just discovered (the builders had covered them in tape 5 yrs ago which is now failing). The ducting run is roughly 4 m long and vents through...

My axial extractor fan in ensuite has given up the ghost and looking to replace it with a more powerful inline fan. My husband's friend who is fitting it is a retired bathroom fitter and he was going to use the existing flexi ducting which isn't insulated however everything I read online...

Thanks John, never thought of that. I'll try anything! I might try just doing the smallest bead possible just to cover the slight gap between frame & slabs so there's not so much for the little beggars to pick at.

Unbelievably they've attacked the fresh stuff I put down this morning. Going to try homemade bird repellent recipe I found on Google of garlic oil.

Hi, has anyone come across a solution to stop magpies destroying mastic? I have sliding patio doors in my kitchen and noticed strips of silicone being gouged out where the frame at the bottom of the doors meets my slabs. I've redone the sections about 4 times now and saw the culprit there this...

Thanks for all your help - much appreciated. I did buy a cramer kit which is great however resealing gives me the fear!

You're right - just trying to put off the inevitable as I hate resealing the shower. Can I get away with just doing the vertical or is it a case of doing the whole shower?

I don't think the photos will help much but there was a couple of bits at the side where the silicone had come loose so I was basically trying to go over the gaps with new stuff

It's a walk in shower & it's the part where the internal walls meet on the right hand side (vertical line which then meets the tray). Just a small section but more annoying than anything else.

Yeah I know what you mean - it's just such a small bit that it doesn't seem worth redoing the whole line. It's certainly got me puzzled though!

Could it be that if the existing silicone was neutral cure & the new one is acetoxy then the new one wouldn't cure over it?

That's good to know thank you. Who would have thought the world of silicone could be so complex!