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If all you want to acheive is a flat ceiling, run a string line across, under all of the joists, adjusting down with shims under the 2 ends untill just touching the lowest joists.(You could us a long straight edge but more awkward) Measure the gaps between string and joist, rip some 4x2 or 6x2...

Same as ceramics.

Ceiling joists are only meant to hold ceilings up, and the occassional water tank when suitably supported If this was an official `loft conversion` the local building control would be involved, not to mention drawings and structural calcs. If this is not the case, I guess the instruction must...

Geraldthehamster, good practical use of insulation, as prescribed by Kingspan, and remembered the air gap. :lol: Info; Scotland mostly uses a ply wood covering onto rafters called sarking, then vertical lath up the rafter called counter battening followed by felt, then normal horizontal lath...

Theres signs of movement, frost damage, previous repair. Get it checked by a structural guy.

Do the same as the rest of us. Guess how long it will take, how much materials will cost, how much you want/hr, if you get it wrong thats experience, if you get it right thats a better experience. Good luck.

Check out; Joist-repair.co.uk They sell steel angles that bolt onto end of rotten joists.

Its your choice, or the cooks! Tiles are mostly so you can wipe down the work top without taking emulsion off the wall, height up to you, but yes easier to work to full tiles saves little cuts under units. We tile up to bottom of extract to catch the grease splashes.

You can get a single head support bracket [probably called something else] which you can drill into place at a tile joint then just one/two holes to grout after removal. I think you can also get telescopic shower curtain rail with suckers on end or get the rail that hangs from ceiling [poly...

We used to use plastic bath trim then tile over, but now use Classi seal which sticks to bath edge before putting in place, this leaves an upstand about 70mm, then tile up from bath over the seal then finish with a tidy gun of microban silicon.

A piece of old gas service pipe too long to get out at last refurb?

More devils advocate. If the stack has 1 pot [gas flue] is there or was there another pot or opening. If its been capped and flaunched, is there an air brick not shown on photo. I had a stack where the guy made a great job on capping and put air brick in towards top, but used the old square...

Hey Local Authority Building Control Inspectors know a bit about regs. Give them a call.

Yep, i`m suitably chastised. What I was really trying to say but didn`t is that its not always necc to use the frequently mentioned RSJ. The existing lintel should be inspected, with reference to load its carrying and if feasable a pre stressed could be used for replacement as they are easier...

Put a 2x2 frame together, to match aperture, fit and screw or gripfill into place. Use one piece of plaster board [lots of measuring] cut with stanley or hand saw, trim with said stanley. Mark out and cut for vent, screw into place, gun around edges with decorator caulk, fit vent, jobs done.

I think you`re asking can the DPC be stepped. Yes it can just over lap by 150mm. at any join.

If you`re saying it has to be of double wall construction my maths tell me you have to ask for 64 sq m of faced/dressed stone. Or if its to be single stone with 2 dressed face then 32 sq m. Simples!

You dont need an rsj. A precast concrete lintel will do. It has to sit on 150mm of wall each end so an 1800 one will do. You will have to acrow and strong boy with 2 props, from one side, the bricks above old lintel before remove and replace.

It reads like the kitchen is 3.5 wide and he wants to go out by 1.5 giving 5.25 sq m. Quite expensive for the area gained.

Get a quote from a builder. I`ve been out to a few installations of porch/bay windows/UPVC patio etc. Windows ok.Fitting just about ok. Building/pointing/roofing/lintel fitting rubbish. Yes I`m a bit biased, no window company has had to correct my builds :!: