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You will have holes where the down lights are fitted, you can use small junction boxes that will fit through the holes.

Having used my Henry on several occasions to suck air from vac bags it normally takes about three minutes for a large one. I am presuming you have checked if the bag is overfull? How long did you wait before re-trying?

You really need to find out if there is a junction box hidden away under the floor of upstairs or in the loft if this is upstairs. Does the other grey cable have an earth core running through between the red/black?

When you say "2 wire" do you mean separate cores or two grey cables with 2 cores in?

Also, looking at the pics again, you will need to sleeve the earth cores with green/yellow.

Does your new switch have a neon lamp? You MUST fit the incoming cable to the terminals marked IN or SUPPLY and the cable to the shower to terminals marked OUT or LOAD. This should not affect the button on the shower.

The victorians did not use RSJ's (the steel beam) I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Whoever did that should NOT call themselves an "electrician". Is that a chocbloc i see peeking out of the right hand switch? Hopefully it is the cpc, BUT even that should not be done.

My comment about transformers was due to the fact that i have found more than one instance where the home owner has connected a tx in the belief that it would charge the batteries. Yes i know it is stupid, But some people are. :shock:

The chances are that the wires go straight to the push, BUT they could go to a transformer. In either case there should be no mains voltage present. Do you have access to a multimeter? short the two wires together at the push and connect the meter to the two wires at the bell with the meter set...

If you have existing detectors they MUST all be linked. Can you get a cable through under the floor above?

Do you have existing smoke detectors? If so link to the nearest one. If not convention is to wire to lighting circuit as this gives an indication if the power fails.

I've always found that using a good ordinary twist drill to break through the glaze followed by the masonry bit into the wall works.

Turn off the main supply at the consumer unit, open the switch and check the connections. Pound to a penny the neutral has either come loose or burned out.

Bottom pic is obviously an end piece, so the new one would snap in after cutting to size/shape. to remove, use a sharp stanley type knife and cut at an angle so as not to remove too much of the t&g. The top pic could be inserted at one side and then curved by hand and located then snapped in. PS...

Some back boxes have a terminal for earth, but if it doesn't then sleeve with green/yellow fit a choc bloc and tuck back. DO NOT CUT THE CONDUCTOR BACK DAMN too slow :(

Your wife is right. The "plank" will be a "noggin" a piece of spare floorboard fitted to give something to screw the light fitting to. Can you enlarge the hole without damaging the cables?

IMHO your gut should be listened to. :)

If the cables are too short then can you make the hole in the ceiling a bit bigger and push the connectors up and run flex as EFLi suggests?