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Just to say I would always recommend tanking a bathroom / shower as it costs just £45 for a complete kit and solves lots of potential problems that may have arisen without it.

Just to clarify, I always use single part-flex adhesive. It is not much more than ordinary and as most tiles are porcelain that go on floors and people use underfloor heating as well as overlay onto wooden floors blah blah blah etc etc I don't really see where conventional rapid set has a use...

The ideal way would be:- to strip off Use an aqua panel type product tank the joins and half way up the wet areas tile with nice large tiles silicone all internal corners afterwards self level the floor with latex screed tile the floor grout seal grout with sealguard for example...

You would not prime the plywood if using a rubber crumb based adhesive like Norcros Tile on Wood. Or maybe if you are using rapid set with an admix. Or if using epoxy grout as an adhesive (which yes you can do)

:lol: :lol:

Pick out the damaged ones and replace. Filling the cracks will look gash :shock: Try Original style or Old England as a good replacement for your originals or a reclaim yard. The tiles are not terracotta if it's a Victorian floor in the way most people mean. They are a dust pressed floor...

Yes as gcol says, bear in mind when an adhesive or grout is waterproof it means it is not affected by water not that it will not let water pass through. Plywood nearly always does need priming with an SBR primer prior to tiling.

take your time, make sure there is water in the tray to keep it cool. Don't force the tiles through and it should cut neatly.

needs to be a cement based adhesive (usually bagged) Tubbed adhesive is made of pva and gypsum powder it has no real strength to it. Tiles don't necesarily need a 10 mm bed. They just need to be solidly bed, if the floor is flat 3-5mm is enough.

DURAL make a host of trims for this - tile to wood trims are available in Gold/Brass/Aluminium colours as well as a variety of other finishes. www.dural.com

Just to add....... Use a polymer modified - single part flexible adhesive. Often just referred to as a single-part flex adhesive in the trade. If your existing tiled floor is sound you can tile over the top. If so prepare a slurry mix of single-part flex mixed with SBR primer and water...

I should add bathrooms are perfect to heat as they run at only 300w when on full (2 square metre 150 w system) and are cosy and keep the rooms from misting up so much. When you mop it dries so quickly too :lol:

No other heating is required, I use the 200w per sq.metre system. I can not tell you how much it is to run at home as we have not been living there long enough yet but at the shop I have it heated the same in one of the rooms:- Room = 20 square metres, concrete floor - no insulation 200 year...

Tiles are poor conductors but will eventually take on some of the room temperature. In my experience having ground floors (inc living rooms) tiled in my last 3 houses it's no problem. In my current house we have the whole ground floor tiled with undertile heating throughout and it is awesome...

I think putting 6 mm down for insulation purposes is a bit of a waste, if you are doing the work and using the adhesive etc you should go 10mm thick. 10mm Insulation boards (example Knauf, Marmox) usually retail around £16 - £18 per square metre. So £350 ish for 22 square metres. If you...

To buy 22 square metres of insulation board at 10 mm thick will cost about £350 ish plus the extra adhesive and time to wack it down say another £100 ish ?? depends how you value the time. I would be in two minds whether it would pay off to fit it without underfloor heating. The savings in loss...

Bear in mind if they are wall tiles you can score with a bar cutter (Rubi TS / TR) or hand scribe and snap with your hands provided the cut is far enough into the tile. I used to use this method - very quick. I was a tiler in the late 1980's. Each to there own of course - if the result is...

Just to hijack this post with another suggestion............. Another way is wet cut the two straight horizontal cuts (as per gcol's diagram above) in to the tile and then scribe across to join them together and snap off. That is the easiest way. Use a bar cutter (Rubi for example) or if wall...

You have to be a little careful as technically tiling onto plaster should not exceed 20kgs per sq.mtr. If you are putting for example floor tiles on the wall (a lot of people do) then you may be pushing it. I would consider what weight of tiles you use and maybe strip back. You could overboard...

Cork tiles? :shock: I would not envisage problems if the thermoplastics are solid. If you take the cork up at a much later date it will probably bring up some thermosplastic tiles too - who knows though?