Search results

Hi guys, yesterday my existing pir floodlight stopped working. Thinking it was a bulb, but unable to get the old one out due to the screw being rusted, I bought and installed a new one (150w). At first it didn't work, due to the fuse being blown and me not knowing that at the time, however I...

quick question: If a lime plastered wall is painted with normal emulsion, could this in effect stop the wall breathing, which in turn means it retains the moisture, causing the plaster to crumble? I'm guessing that for the wall to breathe both sides have to be able to do so, or am i massively...

is it feasable then, that depending on the age of the plaster that it has just run it's course after doing it's job for so long? There's been no other telltale signs of a damp problem and I can rule out pretty much most things that would cause a damp problem, other than the DPC, but if that were...

Thanks for the replies. The wall between my house and next doors is I guess what you would class as an internal wall, so there are is no guttering etc to overflow, also the house is checked on a regular basis so any major leaks would be spotted so i'm certain that's not to blame either...

there was but i put that down to my OH leaving something up against the wall for ages which I thought may have stopped the wall breathing as i'm 99% sure I have solid walls with no cavity. There was none before she did that. It's only when I removed the offending item that I noticed the...

I can post more pics if needed but my father in law has said he will help but he was talking about using patching plaster which i don't know is a good idea. The mortar behind the plaster is generally solid once you get rid of whats crumbled off so I didn't know if more mortar should be used...

forgot to add that it is a victorian house, so don't know if the crumbling mortar underneath is lime mortar. Is it advisable to get rid of everything to plain brick and then plaster on top, or should another layer of lime mortar be used prior to plastering?

Our back dining room has a bit of blown plaster in various places and a couple of bits have come away from the wall. Underneath these bits, the wall it is joined to is crumbling away as it appears there is a coating over the bricks almost like cement. I have put some pics below so you can...

Hi Richard, could you let me know your thoughts on hardiebacker board. They do a 800 x 1200 12mm sheet which is the perfect size for the area I want to tile and been quoted a reasonable price per board, as none of the tile places near me seem to stock marmox and online places are charging a fair...

cheers for that. I won't be plastering the marmox, just want a decent waterproof backing for the tiles to go on. Usually me and my OH's dad use powdered adhesive, rather than the all in 1 stuff in tubs

:lol: that's fine! happens to me too! would priming the marmox be optional or a deffo requirement?

to be honest, i'm not really concerned about the insulating side of things as the main purpose for it was to have a decent backing for the tiles rather then tiling straight onto the painted plasterboard. I won't be tiling the whole of the bathroom, just the small area above & around the bath...

one last question if that's ok? Been looking online for marmox suppliers and some seem to sell 12.5mm thickness and others 10mm. Would there be any problems if i were to opt for the 10mm thick?

thanks richard, thought it might be a question of using the tape and sealant. Will start pricing it up now :)

yeah, i meant studs. I may adhesive and screw just for piece of mind. Whats the best method for sealing the corner where both walls meet?

cheers richard. I won't need to seal the marmox with a primer will i? I was looking at the instructions on how to fit it and it says to screw at 30cm intervals, however i think the gap between joists in my wall are slightly bigger than that, do you envisage any problems if i were to use adhesive...

tile size is probably going to be 33 x 25cm and ceramic ones, so nothing too heavy. The floor isn't being done, just the wall that will be behind the showerhead and the wall to the side. Was also looking at marmox as well, if that's any good? The total area to be done is just over 6sq m, and...

the walls in the bathroom already have painted platerboard on, so would i need 6mm or still 12mm? I presume going by the instructions for no mor eply that I would use the same instructions for a solid wall as opposed to a stud wall, seeing as i already have the plasterboard in place?

been looking at the hardibacker, would i need the 6mm or the 12mm for the walls?

cheers for the headsup about pva. I'm not thinking of tiling straight onto the walls, I would prefer a better surface for the tiles to go on. We were looking at the splashwalls but at £260 for 2 it just seems steep, and once you factor in the adhesive for them and the corner bits i'm sure...