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sounds like you need an excorcism. No but really on basic info given on system if you got a tank fed system you prob need a new washer on tank ball valve and clip pipework, process of elimination really . let us know if that does the trick if not other things can be done but one step at a time .

Would fix to floor lessen any movement and remember to bed the tray down on a weak mix sand cement.

Left yourself wide open did not know you got cast iron hole saws . but seriously if bath is cast use hole saw with cutting compound and wear gloves and safety specs . And measure twice cut once.

Who your auntie or the cooker or both

Do away with a stack and shove a durgo Vv on it.

One word naw . If its expensive as you say then you wont want to cheapen the look by trying to shorten it anyway . Bite the bullet my tight friend and spend your hard earned on a short fellow.

Aye prob putty on holes if that old. use a craws foot basin spanner but if you canny shift em basin will have to come off to get access as a last resort . Box spanner will get em off as well. chances are you gonny bust basin if old and decrepit taps. O and buy the way every one will be hard...

Stating obvious here remove bottom bung and put it in top hole . Syphon wont stop till water reches bottom hole . or bung it up with a wee spot o silicon.

Nah, thats your prob as johnd says your a "style victim " . Check your plumber has not fitted bollofix Vvs or check Vvs as this will further impede flow .It is a frequent problem these days , saves on water though

Must be a fair slope. Why dont you get a level and check both floor and wall soon find out if porkies are being told . If on the other hand floor is sloping "WHY" Only way to remedy right is to level floor and square wall , 2" seems a tad excessive though.

Check to see if there is a mixer anti scald vv fitted under bath . Its now comp to fit em on all new installs up here by order of the hollywood goverment. Actually 1 of their better ideas to stop people particularly the very young old and vulnenerable from being scalded.

Using them at the moment on the new Birmingham city hospital. there is an o ring inside and you do need a special tool to crimp em. Never had many leaks, Only drawback is once on they dont move 1 mistake and you got to cut back. Get em in copper and plated steel more for industrial or...

Can bet they will be stainless. Was used in the roaring 60s when copper was in short supply due to some crisis somewhere anyway enough history. Try cutting it with a pipe cutter and will prob break wheel . comp is ok put a touch of liquid ptfe on as well and need to tighten up hard to...

[quote= and that is with being on everyday even in the summer[/quote obviously not Green then!!

by flat plate clip sounds like a circlip. After about 30 years service its gonny be a tad on the tight side , pour a kettle o boiling water (carefull) over tap,and tap with a nylon mallet . Just one of these jobs a hate going to would rather avoid, too time consuming and end up cracking...

Been over 6 months on an ensuit told her (missus) will be done for xmas , no chance rather do jobs that pay can see me tiling on the two week shutdown though.

should go on the same way as old one . However metal plate should be secured to outside of cistern (ensure you fit right way so securing bolts fit) Large nut secures it in place either fit doughnut rubber or foam seal to suit wc . Dont be too over enthusiastic when tightening wingnuts.

Hire a corecutter from your local hire centre make sure you also get a drill with a clutch , or you gonny be wrapping your xmas pressies one handed

Use reducing 10mm x 15mm sets at Vvs What kind of system you got fitted unvented /vented Sounds like a long weekend if you try it . know its a DIY forum but a wee bit o knowledge goes a long way.

prob best with bollofix Vvs, or comp stop ends