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Firstly you need to find out why the boiler needs to be topped up. Regularly top CH sytem will lead to corrosion in the system. Check you have no small weeping joints at tails of rads and any accessible joints on the pipework. If you cannot find any, it maybe worth introducing a leak sealer.

Normally you would alter pipework under floor if accessible/located there. Other than that as the new rad is longer than the old one, you will have to alter the tails by probably adding a couple elbows at at least one tail or both.

http://www.toiletspares.co.uk/nis-long-cable-valve-800mm.html

It would providing you can get a solid fill and the back of the hole stays in place. You may have to apply a few applications though.

Indeed, not the best or safest place for a cooker iso and socket outlet

Yes don't rely on currys to install, unless it is a simple job, such as a plug/socket install and not gas pipes in the way behind the appliance. With regards to isolating the circuit, I would not recommend just pulling the fuse, I would advise to prove the circuit is dead before you touch...

Have you made the HA aware of this? If so and they are not prepared to rectify it, I would recommend that you seek authority from the HA for any improvements you care to take on.

Stainless steel, will be fine.

Very likely the diaphragm on the siphon has failed and needs replacing. It is very often much easier just to completely replace the siphon than the diaphragm. The work required is very much the same and very little difference in material costs. Maybe £2.00 for diaphragm and £6.00 for siphon.

You will need to check the specification of the product you purchase, but I would assume most will require and expansion kit.

The ones screwfix sell.

I personally would contact the installer and inform them that your cubicle is leaking. It sounds to me that it has not been sealed or fitted correctly.

If the circuits connected to electrical equipment within the bathroom are RCD protected then supplementary bonding could be excluded, also if plastic pipework is preventing continuity of the metallic pipework within the bathroom, then again it could be excluded. There are also few over examples...

I think it would best, if you elaborated on what you actually require to know.

Not pretty! I would defo think of having the cables protected or removed away from the heat of both hot water and central heating pipework.

Yes those connectors will do.

It would be worth checking the seals around the bath and whether the grout is failing on the tiles. Not a normal place to have massive amounts of water, given the fact that the shower is at the other end of bath. So it maybe worth checking the pipework too. Do you know if there are any...

What electrical device is tripping? Fuse, MCB, RCD, RCBO etc. As the machine does not trip on spin cycle, I would eliminate motor as an issue. Very likely the heater.

It will work where ever you can nip up glands, providing you have not made a entry hole larger that.

They will divide the circuit up and test sections of that circuit, to eliminate good from bad.