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Thanks... I guess I'd better get going with the wire brush :)

Thanks for the reply. As I understand it, the sbr cement slurry would provide a stable surface for plastering, however would this also be suitable for the areas where I need to replace missing mortar around the bricks?

Thanks for the advise. Would there be anything to be gained by PVAing the surface first

One of the walls in my living room only has 1 x 13amp double socket outlet in the corner. I would like to add some additional sockets further along the wall. Is this just a case of spurring off the existing socket or will I have to have new cabling run back to the consumer unit?

Hope I've put this in the correct section. I'm renovating the open fireplace in my cottage, intending to plaster over the existing brickwork. As I have started to remove the decades, if not centuries, of soot, it has become obvious that a certain amount of re pointing is going to be required as...

Thanks for the tips folks.

I'm currently glossing some wooden skirting boards. They need a second coat. Should I lightly sand the first coat before applying the second?

How long can you store gloss paint after it has been opened. I've got half a large tin of brilliant white gloss which is about 4 years old. I last used it on some skirting about a year ago, and the skirting still looks fine. I've given it a good stir and it looks good. Will it still be all right...

I have a pine door which needs repainting. It has been glossed a couple of times previously, but when it was first done it appears that the knots in the pine were not sealed and have started to bleed through. I don't really want to have to strip the whole door back to seal the knots, so is there...

I'm preparing an old wall ready for repainting. Most of the original skim is in good condition, but some small patches have broken away. I was planning to patch these areas with a repair skim. It has been suggested that I should seal the damaged areas with PVA before applying the repair skim. Is...

Thanks for the reply. I was just a bit concerned about the filler shrinking back into the hole over time.

As part of my kitchen redecoration I have removed several kitchen units from one of the walls, which will now become a plain wall. As a result there are many deep holes where the support brackets were fitted. How far do I need to fill these holes? Should I fill them to the full depth of the hole...

Thanks for the reply. I found a similar Polycell product which said it was suitable for wood, so I used that and it seems to have done the trick. However, I am now not sure if I can apply gloss straight on top or whether I need to undercoat it first.

I want to paint the exposed wooden beams in my kitchen. In the past they have been stained with a very dark wood stain. I've washed and sanded them, but there are some areas where the stain has penetrated so deeply that it can't be removed. I had planned to do an undercoat of International Stain...

Thank you.

I've recently had the monobloc tap in my kitchen replaced, and the last few inches on both the hot and cold supplies have been connected using plastic piping. Do I have to have the taps separately bonded given that they are now isolated from the rest of the copper pipework?

Thanks for all the advise. It looks like getting someone in might be the best option after all.