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No one got any magic formulas for working out render qtys ? :shock:

That's a result then...it's the easiest cable I ran! The panel is in a stud wall upstairs and the 360 sensor is about 3ft from the bottom of the trunking all the ground floor cables emerge from. the floors are all up, so hall sensor is the easiest to get too! Double result as it was the first...

Thought about posting some pics up then wondered if it was wise to publicise my whole alarm insall on an open web forum ;-) Will have think...

Hi - going to render part of a wall (2 x chimney alcoves) this weekend and have two 2.7square meter 'walls' to cover. At 15mm thick that equates to 2 x 41litres of 'render' - I presume aplied in two coats, one to flatten the wall (old house, bricks all over the place) and a finish coat to leave...

Thanks for that :D why such a pain?? It 's supposed to cover a 7m radius, so wound down slightly I figured it'd be ok for 5.3m??? I HOPE!! What do you envisage will happen? over spill of 'sight' out the door/window or confused signalling as it's bouncing off walls?? Can replace with a std...

Just aded anotehr 100quid to the bill...2 more PIRs, and expander module, PC data cable and anotehr 100m of alarm cable...soon adds up. Purely out of interest, what would a sensible quote be to fit a hard waired texecom 24 with 7 PIRs, 3 flush mount door contacts, 2 keypads external bell...

Don't buy a good bosch one with a screw point as they're designed to cut easily by pulling itself throuogh which means it'll cut deeper than you may want without realising. a new cheap one will be better. or borrow mine and buy your contacts from cts-direct as they'll be guaranteed a perfect fit ;-)

As pcaouolte says...put it on the handle side...the only reason I've put mine oh the hinge side is becasue i needed to get the sensor to the alarm pannel easily. My door opens about 30' or 15" but only allows about 12" of access through the gap with the wall and the radiator is there to hinder...

A digital vernier...had one from when they were very expensive and specialist gear (from my father) now have a selection ( I've inherited my father's and father in law's tools) and they're cheap as chips now (fine for DIY) and Invaluable! Does your front door open outward then??

Here's the contacts in the door frame and door...the 15 layers of paint are about 30 years old so chipped off quite badly when cutting the face rebate. they are actually mounted flush with the door/frame, though if you had a 5mm gap between the door and frame then you wouldn't have to worry...

I pur resistors on my flush contact...leave them sticking proud but drill the body hole as deep as you can within reason to give you more space...inch and a half should be plenty... I'll try and get a photo of mine tonight

Stoopid question, but when i power up the alarm properly for the first time, I presume the sounders will not just start going off if somethings not set right?? Or is it normal practive to unwire these, loop the tampers and only connect these once it looks right? Is there an 'engineer mode'...

That's what i thought...is there any real world difference between the functionality of the serial and USB cables? one of my many old laptops will have a serial port...

PC communication... When i bought the GSM dialer, one of the benefits suggested (a bonus, niot the reason for buy ing it) was that it'd allow PC communication instead of having to buy a serial or usb connector. Not sure if that's right?? Is there any way to connect a pc to the Tececom...

GHis back door is weatehr protected by the porch...open to the driving elements I could understand but the the body is such a good fit in the hole, it's unlikely to let damp in??? Maybe a little smear of vasseline might help to ensure no damp? Just a thought :-)

can't you use a flush mount sensor...just fitted mine today. Takes a 20mm flat drill bit and drill through the frame out of the wall at an angle and you can run the wire through the back of the frame and put the magnet in the door... Any use?

Old house but renewing all the heating and DHW side. Only thing is I'm doing it room by room as to minimise disruption in house as were living in it with a very inquisitive 2yr old! UF heating is great, but not with a leaky old solid brick wall house and carpets....

So your saying no need for a 2port AND a pump per circuit from the LLH as there'd be no flow if the pump was not working...which totally contradicts what my guy said about just needing the 'primary' pump...or would the primary pump just be sized consdderably smaller so as not to actually create...

MY only issue is it's: A) wireless (i much preffer wires as they dont; run out of battery and the signal is as good as the copper...) B) still taking the temop reading right next to the radiator which can't be the most efficient place to measure the room temp...which is my issue with normal TRVs

The approved doc says that or the actual regs? Can;t see how it would not pass with a fully zoned (even if it IS massive overkill) system...