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No, how any leaked current gets to earth is irrelevant - in simple terms an RCD measures the difference between the current going out on the line conductor, and the current coming back on the neutral - if they differ by more than the allowed amount it will trip. Any difference is normally...

I would suspect you've got something that's causing a non insignificant amount of earth leakage (but not enough to trip the RCD on its own), and when you put the grill on, that causes enough additional leakage to trip the RCD. Try unplugging all your other appliances (particularly anything...

I'm a bit confused here - you say they are reading a current on the incoming earth, what are they measuring that against (i.e. if one probe of whatever they're using to measure is connected to incoming earth, where is the second one going)? If it's to some sort of 'true' earth, then surely...

This raises an interesting question I've had - in my house all the cabling (including downstairs power circuits, as it's concrete ground floors) runs from the consumer unit under the stairs to upstairs inside the cavity between my house and my neighbour (I'm in an end terrace property). As I...

Crimps are acceptable for permanent connections of two conductors, not for terminating one. Not sure what you mean by heat shrinkable crimps - the ones that I know of and are compliant with the regs are compression ones (you can then put heatshrink over them if required)? With regards...

Just to elaborate on that a bit further - crimps for the ring main (i.e. crimp the two cables together to maintain ring continuity), and for the lighting circuit presumably it is going to a switch so I guess you need to just relocate that switch...

Your best bet is to use crimps, as they can be left under floorboards / above ceilings without any problems. If you do, make sure you use a proper ratcheting crimp tool, not a cheapo flimsy thing from e.g. Halfords...

Was the one who said it must be double insulated perhaps under the impression that it was not all going to be in containment, as obviously in that case he is correct - if it's running 'free' as it were then it does need to be double insulated...

I was looking round a house with a friend that he was considering buying - it had been bought by someone who had done it up, and they'd clearly replastered the ceilings, and then lit *every* room with loads of downlights - in the (quite small) lounge alone there was 400W worth, and I think if...

I'm intrigued by the photos of people wearing gauntlets and visors etc to pull the fuse - when I had my supplier (British Gas, though the guy they sent was from Siemens) come out and fit an isolator (and in fact a subsequent meter change that they randomly decided they needed to do), he didn't...

Hello, I help out a local amateur theatre and they've been doing some electrical work over the last few days. One of the things they've done is installed a few new sockets, and the way they've done this is installed inside a partition wall some metal (20mm) conduit which connects at one...

I'm not necessarily disagreeing, but I'm wondering how this works given that multiple suppliers use the same DNO network, presumably the suppliers 'put in' financially a contribution on the basis of how much their customers have 'used', so if they're being undermetred then while yes the supplier...

That's not the way it works - you have to notify them *before* doing the work, otherwise there is a risk they won't approve the work and require you to rip it all out, and also even if they do approve it they are likely to charge you a higher regularisation fee compared to the normal...

Definitely the DNO first (and NOW!) - if you're not sure who that is look on your phone bill, it should have a phone number for emergencies (this may or may not be your DNO, but they should be able to put you through). They will then sort it out and make it safe, which is the first priority...

If you were in a situation where you wanted to discourage casual use then you could surely just fit a fish key switch. FatallyFlawed - it might be interesting to test a selection of non-MK sockets to see how easy it is to use something other than a socket cover to open the shutter - i.e. give...

That's possibly just the supplier sending out a sub contractor to replace the meter, and whoever they sent either didn't notice (or more likely didn't know/care) that it was a non standard supply cable...

Normally the connection to the service head (i.e. the bit with the service fuse in) is the responsibility of the DNO, the connection between the service head and the meter (and the meter itself) is the responsibility of the current supplier, and everything post meter is the responsibility of the...

If it were me then to save the hassle of chasing it and the associated dust and faff with plastering etc I'd put in some of the nice corner profile D-line trunking (http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Trunking_Pvc_Index/Dline_White_Index/Dline_22_22_White/index.html) - put in tight against...

Indeed, RCDs in series is generally pointless (and implies it wasn't properly installed, as there is no way the RCDs beyond the first one could have been properly tested, since the first one may have tripped anyway!) The only case where it isn't is if you have a higher rating RCD or a time...

While (assuming that MEB is in place etc) there shouldn't exist a potential difference between things the householder can touch, surely there is still a risk, as you are in some amount of contact with true 'earth' by the fact you're standing on it (in particular imagine using a metal outside...