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Your best bet then if you can't replace the cable easily is probably to use crimps with a proper ratcheting crimp tool, either covered in heatshrink, or in some sort of enclosure, since it sounds like there's no way to make this joint accessible...

Typically I'd assume that brown fuse box would be for storage heaters, and quite possibly an immersion. It's probably hooked up to a timeswitch in some way - can you take a pic of the meter and any other boxes that are attached to it? There's nothing wrong with using one element for overnight...

Indeed the ones you can't identify are most likely redundant circuits, or supplying an outlet somewhere you aren't using. If in doubt, leave them off - if they are actually supplying something you'll figure it out when you come to try and use it...

In case he's got his information from some dodgy kitchen fitters manual or something, you can point him at Table 1 on Page 8 of Approved Doc P (this isn't the building regs, but it much easier to look at than the actual regs themselves)...

The only bit of the work you've described that probably *wouldn't* be notifiable is the hooking up of the electric oven, everything else is, so either needs to be notified to the LABC in advance of the work being done, or done by a member of a self-certification scheme. As I understand it...

There have been a number of discussions as to whether these comply or not - it all comes down to what you interpret the bit in the regs about complying with an appropriate product standard means...

Getting OT now, but technically a kilobyte / megabyte are just 1000 / 1000000 bytes - a kibibyte is 1024, and a mebibyte 1048576 (abbreviated to KiB and MiB). Unfortunately, manufacturers don't normally use these terms, and simply call things KB or MB and use whichever of 1000 / 1024 gives them...

It's OK to do that - obviously as long as you extend the ring properly (i.e. extend one leg at the existing socket to your first socket, then new cable from first to second to third, then go back from third to the other leg at the existing socket). As for crimps, the tool is correct, but for...

If it's 4mm then you can't go to a 32A breaker - 4mm over that distance (when supplying lighting) would have a max load of just over 7kW, 32A * 230V = 7.4kW, which would need 6mm. You could go for 20A if you're worried, but as has been said, unless they have some ridiculously overpowered...

It should be fine, as long as you're not running a whole load of stage lighting or similar, however your question makes me wonder if you have the necessary knowledge to be doing this (calling a CU a consumer 'box', talking about just upping an MCB, no mention of RCD protection for the sockets...

According to the building regs (which are legally enforceable), you have to notify before doing the work, unless you're a member of a self certification scheme. If you don't, then if you're lucky you might just need to get a PIR done, but if the buyer's solicitor is being thorough, you may have...

Do you really have to separate them - given SWA is armoured with an earth - surely any RFI issues (which as I understand it is the primary reason behind the separation distance) are negated by that (it's better than the barrier of dual-compartment trunking certainly!)...

Note that if you're in England or Wales changing the protective device for a circuit is notifiable under Part P of the building regs to your LABC *before* doing it. They'll probably charge you £100+ for the privilege, so it's almost certainly going to be cheaper to get an electrician in to do...

If it was done since Part P came in then the solicitor probably wants a building regs completion certificate, as rewires / new CUs etc are notifiable under Part P. Assuming you did the work since Part P came in, but didn't notify it, then what you'll probably have to do is notify it to the...

For peace of mind you could have a look on http://www.competentperson.co.uk/ and check he (or his firm) is registered with one of the self-certificaiton schemes so he can properly certify the work to the LABC etc...

The problem you may have however is the 17th edition of the regs does not allow all circuits to be protected by one RCD, due to the inconvenience if it trips. While you're not obliged to change your existing set up, your new circuits shouldn't be added to it as is, so an electrician may need to...

If you've never done it before, I wouldn't suggest doing the first fix yourself would be a good idea (you need to know how to select cable sizes, protective devices and lots and lots of other things). If you're looking to save money, I would suggest find an electrician you get on with, and...

There isn't a simple answer to your question - essentially there are two things you could do instead of a complete rewire: * You could replace the current (I assume fuse board) with a modern consumer unit, this would only be possible if the current wiring passed appropriate tests (i.e. was in...

So, when I enquired with EDF about getting my cutout fuse upgraded to 100A (currently 60A) they told me I'd need to get my supplier (in my case BG) to upgrade the tails between cutout and meter if they weren't 25mm (which they aren't), and that their responsibility ends at the cutout. Given that...

I doubt the RCDs that will be supplying the circuits these neutral bars are for will be rated to 100A (probably 63A, or even 40A), so in theory you shouldn't have 100A going through them. Obviously the one out of the main switch to the main neutral bar could though, especially in an all MCB/RCBO...