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Personally, I’d still run a full length along the garage wall, and ‘rest’ your 2 frame lengths on top of it, just to spread the load evenly.

As a tradesman, I agree with @cdbe above, and TBH 95% of the time we all use slow set to tile the bathroom walls. However, in the case above, we are talking an area of less than 2m2, hardly a full bag or a large area! And trust me, the O.P. will be focused on getting that tray down, absolutely...

Yip, you need to be prepared ! I also see you’ve changed from slow set to rapid set, which is what I’ve always used ( albeit I prefer the BAL flexi rapid ) Top Tip :- put the tray face down, flat, on a carpet and unwrap it. Then take a known flat edge ( 1200 or 1800 spirit level usually )...

SBR for me, mixed 3:1. Leave overnight to dry. BAL Rapidest tile adhesive. Has worked well for me over the years.

+1

Take a multi tool to the skirting and take the 50 mm out ?

If you tell him there will be a charge up front to come out and see it, then your problem will be solved - he'll tell you where to go !

I was tiling a kitchen last month where the customers main bathroom walk in shower had the wetwall panels installed horizontally, so a 'seam' at 1M and another at at 2M high. Seemed strange at first, but the again, why not ?

Although this doesn't help you - it might help anyone else looking for a similar " hack"/ tip .......... If grouting in either a light grey or a medium grey, then BAL Micromax is colour matched exactly with Screwfixs own brand silicones !

If its only temporary, if be inclined to lift the carpet, wash the tiles, and just lay a slightly thicker cushioned vinyl straight over the top of it.I Save your pennies for when the tiler comes in, throws the whole lot in the bin then restarts and does it properly.

You’re obviously not getting it @aobr31569. That kit is for an easy 2 way join. The O.P is trying, and succeeding in making a 3 way join.

Now that I’ve ‘ zoomed in’ on that green tinged layer stuck to the adhesive …… It’s the old top coat of finishing plaster :)

The ' thin board' you refer to is is actually the tile adhesive. It is stuck solid to the tile because the ( very) dry plaster has sucked all the water out of the adhesive when it was tiled. Keep going and strip everything off; the wall looks in very good condition. It's personal choice...

Your step doesn’t look very high, but has to get under that door drip tray - could you not just remove it altogether and slab at ‘ ground level’ ?

Yip, I’ve been called before to do that for someone. Better being a porcelain tile than a ceramic tile, and it’ll need epoxy resin ( food grade grout)

Well done ! You got there :) Now you’ve got to do a left hand to go with the right hand you’ve mastered :)

Or make it easy for yourself and use a modern flat trim ! Lol ( it’s been years since I’ve installed quadrant on a job )

Hi Tog. Well, you have a few options. Depending on the answers to the following what I would suggest:- 1. What kind, size, and weight of tiles are you putting on ? 2. When you rotate an 1800 level all over the wall, how flat/ plumb/ dips has wall. 3. Are you taking the bath and sink off the wall ?

Also, a ‘Genesis’ tile trim mitre block is an essential piece of kit

Doing the second cut on each length ( the arrowhead) I lie the trim on its back, and cut from the inside out. ( after I’ve cut off a bit of the ‘fin’)