Search results

  1. P

    Replacement Screen Channel

    Thanks PrenticeBoyofDerry, I'm getting closer. The channel I'm replacing isn't a U - its more of a D with its arms up (???) - a kinda D= shape with the glass slipping into the = bit of that.... (if you understand that then you're a better man that I am). The U channels may just work...
  2. P

    Replacement Screen Channel

    Does anyone know of a supplier of replacement channels for bath panel screens? I'm in the middle of renovating a bathroom in which the bath was replaced but the client wanted to keep the screen. I damaged the channel taking it off the wall as it was stuck on like a goodun. I wasn't too fussed...
  3. P

    Fink Truss with supports

    I'm in the middle of demolishing the upstairs walls in a friend's house before I rearrange all the bedrooms (Oh what fun!!!!). I've just come across a random bit of block wall at one end of the house. It's not quite at the centre span of the attic trusses (about 200mm out) and is only 400mm...
  4. P

    Notched floor joists

    Thanks RonnyRaygun for the quick response. This sounds ideal, plus I've got some in my garage, so happy days!! :D
  5. P

    Notched floor joists

    I'm in the middle of renovating a clients house and have just stumbled across some 8x2 floor joist on the first foor that someone has notched on the bottom. The notches are about a metre from the joist hanger and are about 5 inches wide and 1 inch deep into the joist. I'd like to...
  6. P

    MDF or MR MDF?

    Cheers JohnD. I suggested this as I've done these before but the client didn't like the idea. Big-all - thanks for the ideas. I'm gonna head to the timber merchant and see what they've got. I'm still unsure though (for future reference) when to use MR MDF rather than good old MDF?
  7. P

    MDF or MR MDF?

    That was going to be my next question.... The client would like a 300mm deep shelf with a total span of around 2000mm. They also want a 'chunky' looking shelf which I have found some 50mm think MDF (not MR) for the shelves and I'll use some thinner (and cheaper) for the carcass. I'll support...
  8. P

    MDF or MR MDF?

    I've been asked to construct some MDF shelves in a living room. Do I need to use MR MDF or would oridinary MDF suffice. I only ask because my local Travis Perkins tells me that MR MDF is not being used much any more. Cheers in advance
  9. P

    Thin Render

    Sounds like it might work. Thanks for your help.
  10. P

    Thin Render

    I've been asked to re-render the top of a concrete seated area because the current seat is too flat and rainwater settles on it. (FYI - the depth of the seat is 700mm) The problem I have is that the front of the seat is also concrete, so there's a corner-bead already forming a nice, clean edge...
  11. P

    Rendering behind a woodburner

    I've been meaning to post this for ages and I've finally got time today. I ended up finding a product called Vitcas Heat resistant Plaster. It comes in 20kg tubs and works a treat. I rendered the wall first with sand and cement and then plastered this Vitcas stuff on over it to produce a...
  12. P

    Rough finish to plaster

    Just thought I'd let you know how I did it in the end - I used One-coat, got it to to stage of looking nice and flat and beautiful and then distroyed it by going over it with a sponge in a bag. Ended up looking pretty good if I do say so myself - matched the old plastering spot on. :D
  13. P

    Rough finish to plaster

    Happy new year all! I've got an odd question - how do I make my plastering look rubbish? The client (bless him) would like me to match my plastering to what he's got in the rest of his very old house - the finish is rough and resembles artexed ceilings (but not as rough) i.e. almost like brush...
  14. P

    Rendering behind a woodburner

    Thanks Richard. I've read through that previous thread and digested all the info (my brain hurts!). I'm going to go for a 5:1:1.5 Sand, cement, hydrated lime mix. Is it the same basic process as plastering (i.e. a base coat then finishing coat just before the base coat has dried)? Can I...
  15. P

    Rendering behind a woodburner

    I'm just about to plaster my extension. One of the walls is to have a free-standing woodburning stove next to it. The wall is made of thermalite blocks. I was planning on Dot and Dabbing the whole wall and then plastering but someone mentioned that this wouldn't last behind the stove...
  16. P

    Drying too quick

    Thanks guys - will have another go at it tomorrow.
  17. P

    Drying too quick

    It's bare plaster. I PVA with a roller (with most of it going down my arm!!!) and brush for the edges. I've been waiting for it to go tacky before plastering (is this too late / too soon?) I had trouble today with a wall that was 4 sq m - it took me about 15 minutes to get on as there was a...
  18. P

    Drying too quick

    If you mean PVA then yes - 2 oe 3 coats. If you mean plaster then no - I was hoping to get away with one coat but have had to resort to two because of all the problems - even the second coat went off like a rocket!!!!
  19. P

    Drying too quick

    Guys, please help - I'm going bonkers!!!! I'm currently skimming a few walls that we recently stripped of wallpaper leaving old plastered walls (with too many bumps and cracks to paint over). I've PVA'd all the walls twice and yet this has not slowed down the Multi-Finsh drying time -...
  20. P

    Plasterboarding over thermalite blocks

    I think I know the answer to this one but thought I'd check- I'm looking to Plasterboard out an extension - the inner leaf being thermalite blocks. Initially I thought I'd dot and dab onto the blocks but then thought maybe I could just screw the board to the blocks (as they can be screwed...
Back
Top