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Ok, so purchase a 22mm brass stopcock not 20mm and fit a 3/4" olive with a 20mm insert on the black pipe?

Use a 3/4 olive with a 20mm to 15mm brass stopcock?

The current one is brass, i did explain this to the chap at the counter but he insisted a brass one will not fit the old black 20mm mdpe pipe

Looking to replace the mains water stop cock, it appears to be on black mdpe 20mm plastic pipe going to 15mm copper Can this be purchased in a brass fitting? I went to my local plumbing store who said I'll have to purchase the plastic version which costs 5x times more than the brass version! As...

On the first and last joists the ends of the wall I'll be putting some timber or joists there too for added support. I will need to make a notch so i don't block the air vents on the window side I have two cavity sleeve vents which are just below the void, below the window where the garage door...

You just answered the same time i was responding :) Will stagger the joints Should i fit one set of noggins in the centre or two sets across the floor? Are the noggins secured with screws or twist nails?

Is it better to stagger the noggins or fit them in a straight row? Should i fit one set of noggins mid centre or two sets across the floor? Are the noggins secured with screws or twist nails?

So the herringbone struts would they provide more strength and bracing compared to using 8 x 2 noggins?

I have another question which has come to mind.. Should i use noggins 8x2 or herringbone struts? How many should i fit? The area is 3.60 x 4.80 metres

I did think 270mm is excessive for a suspended timber floor, will double check with building control again in the coming days once the floor is up and report back Thanks all

I asked the BCO if i could use mineral/glass wool, they advised if i go down this route it'll have to be 270mm! alternatively they suggested 125mm jablite

Ah ok lol The quilt insulation, from doing a quick google search comes in a large roll, can it be cut down to size to fit in between the 400 centres of the joists?

My intention is definitely to get the floor level! Confused with you second sentence Quilt insulation, is that the official name of the product? I'm sure the BCO didn't suggest this! Will definitely be looking at this instead! Cheers!

Evening Ken, Thank you for your response. The garage opening has been bricked up with a window, the opposite end I've taken the wall out which leads to the kitchen. The kitchen floor level is higher than the garage floor, so what i had done was mark down 30mm on the garage floor level and...

I need to build a suspended timber floor, using 8x2 c24 treated timber in the garage. Given that the garage is not level I was planning on tackling it as follows: Fix one of the wall plates to the wall using 140mm rawlbolts with a 30mm drop and then hang one joist so i can then determine and...

Ok I'll insist on it being treated, the size is 3.60 x 4.80

Sure will do, the building control officer stated to use treated tanalised timber I've been to my local builders yard who said as long as it's c24 grade that is sufficient, it does not need to be treated Is this correct? Or should i insist on it being treated?

Perfect, that's the confirmation I was looking for ;) I'll be ordering 8x2 c24 timber for the joists, I'll order 9x2 instead for the wall plates which will give me more space to stagger the fixings Is that ok?

So i can drill below the dpc or just above the brick work dpc? So effectively the dpc mortar line will be in between

So does that mean i can drill below the dpc or just above the brick work dpc? The dpc joint within the garage is three courses above the brickwork, which is more or less in line to the finished floor level The sole plate will be approx 32mm below the FFL to account for chipboard flooring and...