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100mm PIR/PUR (plus p/board and chipboard) is only going to give a U of about 0.23 which is not much better than 175mm of rockwool. That's pretty poor - you will be losing over double the heat through your loft than you would be if you insulated to best practice (which would be about 400mm+...

I agree with the second part of your sentence, but not your first. There's a massive difference (look at the numbers!) between a high spec 3G window and your common-or-garden 2G. Two layers of low E coatings on 3G makes a massive difference to perceived radiant heat loss. OP, make sure you are...

I hope you take backups!

I ordered three...

Crap - I'm sure I searched for that. A paged through pages and pages of ebay too. Thanks.

This is why block/brickwork isn't air tight and people in dot and dab "plasterboard tents" are so cold (or poor)!

I really hope the gap is filled behind the trim. Get a thermal imaging camera or IR thermometer (£10 on ebay) and test it when the weather turns cold.

If you insulate over the roof at the same time, going the whole-tea-cosy-hog I *think* you don't need to fill the cavity. It's been known to fill the cavity with concrete (more thermal mass) but bead is easiest and is a DIY job if you want to do it. EPS is not wicking AFAIK. Ideally the...

Do you think the weld would be strong enough?

The brother in law some how managed to crack a door spindle by twisting it too hard! I took the spindle to my local hardware "has everything" store but they didn't have a similar one. It's tapered in two places, the middle is thicker and the ends are thicker, but the taper is at its most at...

Interesting. I wonder if the rust and the cracks are related. I didn't mention this is a fairly exposed SW wall (the pic where most of the cracks are).

Maybe there was once a problem, which motivated the original decision to render. The house was built in the 50s. We have a picture of it in the 70s (I think) and it is still non rendered. Now, only about 20% of the original perimeter is exposed following multiple extensions and so the French...

Errr, well that's awkward. There was another reply in there from someone I recognised on the Green Building Forum (GBF). It's gone now! Hope that explains it. <Moderators note> An abusive post was removed

Hey Joe, I'm gravelld from the GBF :)

The 70 is the grade, the compressive strength. 70 is common for undemanding loads.

What does it mean to have a rusting corner bead? Water ingress causing the rust? The rest of the house was already rendered when this extension was added, so it was to tie in. Don't know, why would you have a french drain? It is around the entire house. I don't understand the distinction... I...

Thanks. Yeah, it doesn't come through in the photo, but rust is coming through. If you tap the cracks they don't sound hollow (there are other areas which do, but not the ones I posted the pictures of) but they do sound different to around. Again, this doesn't come through in the picture but...

Well I'd have it! I'd give you £20-30 for everything in the picture. A lot cheaper than buying it from a builders merchant. Assume we're talking at least EPS70 here.

A house I have moved into. The render is just over a decade old. Repainted about three years ago. Cement render (I assume) on a cavity wall, built in early 2000s and rendered immediately. Should it be showing cracks like this? Not massive cracks, but still...

If you don't want it, sell it, because someone will find that perfectly useful as thermal insulation.