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This morning, 5am, woke up to a drip, drip, drip... from our ceiling. Oh-oh. Went up into the loft and found this was the culprit: This appears to be some sort of pressure relief valve. It says "10 bar" on the top. The water was leaking from the black screw at the top. When I closed it...

Better replace them then :D

From what you describe, your current approach will be fine. You need to sort the roof out obviously. And it sounds like a good time to max up on floor insulation. Don't feel tempted to put downlighters in the ceiling.

What do you mean by "insulate it properly"? What U values are you attempting to achieve? What is your goal? What you have described won't be as thermally efficient as is possible because you are simply filling studwork. Heat conducts through studwork. The most thermally efficient, normally...

Robertson screws also seem popular in the US/Canada.

It seems to vary country to country. The yanks seem to use Torx all over the place in general carpentry. But you rarely see them here, just Pozidriv in anything remotely recent.

We have a ground floor extension with pitched roof at the front of our house. The walls of this house feel very cold to the touch. They feel hollow to the knock, so I assume some use of plasterboard. Following thoughts such as...

You can still see the grain... I guess I would have to paint the whole door. But maybe you're right...

I wondered whether it would be hard to match the grain of the existing door and end up looking like it was a naff effort... Maybe I'm wrong. Don't know where I'd get a small block of oak from tbh.

I have a letterbox in the middle of our door which I want to block up. The aim is to remove the terrible draughts coming through the door. In addition, we want deliveries to be made at a different part of our house, so I have installed a wall mounted post box there. Does anyone have any...

Thanks guys. The bypass bit is where my plumbing knowledge ends (I don't have a lot of it). Given we don't normally heat these rooms I figured leaving them on 0 would be ok - that way there is no extra heat used in those rads when the other TRVs are switching the boiler on. But I have...

Current situation: Oil fired boiler 24 hour programmer next to boiler Standard TRVs on 80% of rads - 22 in total No room thermostat Only half the rooms are heated (although with time more and more rooms are being heated - growing family) Where I want to be: 7 day programmer Zoned...

"roughneck digging bar" -> sounds like a serious bit of kit! :D It doesn't look like you'll get much leverage with those post hole diggers, I must say.

Thanks for the advice... What about these things: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=post+hole+digger&tbm=shop "post hole diggers"?

Thanks. Ok so for a post like this: http://www.davidmussonfencing.com/store/sawn-timber/notch/morticed-posts/1-8m-x-150mm-x-75mm-3-hole-morticed/prod_756.html *without* spikes, I've been told you need to dig them in and can firm back in the soil, 2ft below, 4ft out of the ground. Any...

I'm getting contradictory advice about this. For securing posts in a post and rail fence, should I use metal post spikes? Or simply drive the posts into the ground (assuming they themselves are spiked of course!)?

AU-LED16T Ignore me... I mispoke and was referring to the lower powered driver re. wiring in serial. Turns out this new one has three outputs so can be wired in parallel. That means I can use two core I guess... Still doesn't say the cable requirements though...

According to the manual for my Aurora LED downlights I need to wire the downlighters in serial. This is fine. But what sort of wire/flex? I only need one wire from +ve to -ve of each light on the loop. Therefore is 2-core a wasted core?

Ok, thanks guys.