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I've used PTFE tape all my days - gas tape as that's what I carry all the time it allows less to be used as it's thicker - without issues and will happily do the job. 6-7 turns. Liquid Loctite 577 is a thread locker and sealer that seals and locks the fitting from coming undone, 55 is a...

Absolutely not - If the cold feed is warming up and expanding back up into the cold water cistern (CWSC) then I'd be checking out the safety vent and ensuring everything is free and unrestricted from the cylinder up to CWSC's. I'd also check any monobloc mixer taps, where the cold is mains fed...

An EV or shock arrestor could be used if there is excessive water hammer but if you get the pressure down to a manageable level then a Mini EV probably wouldn't be needed.

:LOL: :ROFLMAO::LOL: Is it not a really small cow Ted

Is that Microbore - 10mm - or is it just the perspective of the pic?

Anything over 4bar dynamic can start to affect fittings and valves, increasing wear. I am slightly confused by the large difference between static and dynamic though, the only thing IME that would cause such a large swing in pressure would be restricted pipework. 7 Bar static could put undue...

Nope, never found any kind of sealant to work when trying to seal water systems. Is it the actual tapping in the cylinder or the compression fitting that's at fault?

+1 for tape, what I've always used so no need to change IMO. As suggested, tape around the olive in a compression fitting only if re-using the fitting

Some of these work where the wall disk is captured when the overhead tube is tightened into the wall plate elbow.

As per the MI - normally just seal on the outside

Cant say I've ever seen a diverter that would fit that shape. As suggested replacing the tap would probably be the only sensible option

Time to get a recommended independent in, Wildfire need the product and serial number to give a list of available parts. If it's only 4 yrs old and it say needs an oxypilot ignition then I'm sure that'll be available.

Once those locks are out then they should just pull off. It may be a bayonet type fitting where you might have to turn it through 90deg. Never heard of BathroomBrand before to see if there's an MI available for it.

Isolate the hot and cold and then read what's on the connector to the left of the screwdriver slot - chances are it'll say either - "push or lift 2 release"

Yes - just polish it with a fine paper or even a new green scotch/scouring pad Make it a junior hacksaw if you have one as it has finer teeth, take your time and cut it nice and square.

If your system is sealed then unlikely to be air, CH system pipework rises all the time in systems and won't create any noise. The ISO valves aren't a good idea, they aren't design for CH and can suffer for it, they can also create turbulence due to the reduction in bore size. Does it stop if...

Ensure the lead is really clean and shiny and completely round with no burrs.

If it's a combination cylinder then all you need to do is get on top as that should be able to be opened and then see what's going on, careful as you could get wet. No it shouldn't sound quite like that and yes a PRV could be fitted but TBH the fill valve should be able to handle all of that.

Who are you and where did you come from?? ;) :LOL: :ROFLMAO:

Believe you me - I've tackled quite a few of these in my time - come across them on occasion up here. Old cast iron baths with lead sealed brass wastes, onto a cast iron trap out onto a lead or copper waste pipe that then runs into a cast iron soil stack. I'm not saying it won't go but in my...