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I think I read on this forum the other day that you can get right angle drill bits.

My LABC charge more for bigger jobs, scaled by how much a pro would charge. I think the minimum is around £100 My take on it was that they would "inspect" the work, but it was whoever fitted its responsibility to "test" the work (which would clearly include inspecting too :)) My LABC guy...

I think there has to be a certain separation between the CU and incoming water/gas service pipes (from memory it's 10 cm but I could be wrong). I beleive this is because the incoming gas or water can be cold and cause condensation, which obviously is not somethiing to mix with your CU ...

beat me to it clitheroe :)

I presume that you are asking because you have a split level board and don't have a TT supply with your own earth rod? If you did have a TT supply then everything would need RCD protection. Also if the circuit will have a socket on (eg an oven switch with integral socket) and is on the ground...

I seem to remember with my hob there were at least 2 lives that fed different rings. These had to be connected together. I can't give you exact details because it was my dad that actualy did the final connecting up. Obviously my hob is not the same as yours but clearly more than one live...

For my fan with overrun requiring, live, switched live, neutral (no earth as double insulated) I took a feed from the lighting circuit to a FCU then a double pole switch for isolation (these are in the airing cupboard adjacent to the bathroom), then from here I ran twin+E to a single switch by...

This is because the circuit is fused (or MCB'd) assuming 10mm cable, if you use smaller and a fault occurrs then the smaller cable could potentially catch fire before the fuse blows. The only way to do it would be as RF says you would need to take 10mm to a fcu with a smaller fuse in, then the...

You definitely can, I work in a university and have used them to mount intruments that need to be electrically isolated. Radio spares do m2, http:\\rswww.com then select Mechanical Products & Tools» Mechanical Components» Fasteners & Fixings» Nuts and Washers» Full Nuts or Mechanical...

By the sounds of it you were right in saying that the old one was wired incorrectly. The way it's done would mean it would switch the boiler but the heater resistor in the thermostat would always be on. This would increase hysteresis and the thermostat would always think the room was warmer than...

Cheers for the tips, it's going to be interesting trying to avoid being to close to the floorboards and also keeping the cable out of the loft insulation. Ta phil

Hi all I am planning to board some of my loft an wanted to check what i need to do with the cable i'm covering. Does it need to be 5cm from both the boards and the ceiling below to avoid the need for earthed sheath? Is there anything else I should be aware of that I haven't considered...

Cheers for all the advice. I'll be trying to raise the cable above the insulation where possible as John mentioned. I'll put it up against joists where it comes up through the insulation and I will also try putting something like 4" tubing cut down its length round it so it can breathe. Where...

Cheers John I was looking at reg 433-02-04 for the value of 20A An MCB protected 2.5mmsq clipped direct cable at 40 degrees would be rated at 23.5, so that would at least sort that out. Still wouldn't fix my loft insulation problems though. I guess I have to round up the thickness passing...

Yes, well, I wouldn't necessarilly agree. I've found numerous loose (or not done up at all :!: ) connections in fixtures, and if my numbers are right in my last post, then it again does not bode too well. He might have been a spark for a living, but that's not the same as being a pro :!:

Cheers for the input The wiring is not new, but it is pvc and I did an insulation check on it after I added some sockets and it was almost off the scale of my meter (at the good end :wink: ) I only have 3 circuits. Lighting (1.5 T+E 6A), ring main (2.5 T+E 30 A) and a radial for the cooker...

hi all I hope this doesn't cause as much controversey as the last insulation post :wink: We are about to have the insulation redone in our loft. As we are in a concrete floored bungalow all the cable for the house goes through the loft. The current set up is cables draped on top of...

I saw a post on here a while back (sorry I can't remember who) that suggested going from the pendant and daisy chaining to a JB for each light. Then from each JB use heat resistant cable to the halogens. This would avaid problems withthe hot halogens damaging the pvc cable.

I have probably an identical set of downlighters that I got from B+Q a few weeks ago. Mine take a few secns to come on and the time varies each time, sometimes less than a second, sometimes 5 seconds. I posted on here and people said they may be soft start ones, but if one of your sets come on...

Not sure about your kitchen but as far as the bathroom is concerned the halogens should have an unobstructed area to allow heat flow around them. I think in the instructions for the last set I bought it said 110mm but I'm not sure offhand. Also laying insulation on cable derates them (by up to...