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Oh OK. The bottle says minimum 2 hours with with all rad valves fully open but can be left in for up to 4 weeks for badly sludged systems. I'll leave it for a few weeks then, give it a chance to do it's worst. Thanks for the advice. Graham

Ahh... OK makes sense. I'm absolutely sure none of the taps drip, and I presume that if they did then swapping the wax head wouldn't have fixed the problem :D X400 going in tonight. Probably leave it til the weekend (or maybe the one after depending how heavy this weekend turns out...

no I checked that. we only have 3 hot taps and they're all fine. Although I do think there is another problem due to uninhibited water being in the system - the div valve push rod thing was coated in a kind of black limescale. And the water I drained out of the boiler was black with bits...

Just wanted to say thanks for all the informative posts on here. Recently started having a problem with my Potty combi, where the CH would not stay on for more than 30 seconds, switch off for about the same then cut back in.... on off on off on off.... so the rads were only getting lukewarm...

ChrisR wrote: You don't know how many times I've had that thought! :lol: It really does seem to be poorly put together from reject parts. Enjoy your turkey ;) Cheers Graham

editted to say: irrelevant post from an unqualified person! :roll:

Thanks Tony. If I can keep it running with just tapping the valve from time to time, I'd rather do that over xmas.... s*d's law says if I try stripping it down to change a part I'll end up with a totally non-functional system for some reason and that really won't go down well! :lol: You...

Bit of a problem - xmas eve as always :roll: On CH my Potty Puma 80E only runs for about 30 seconds before switching off. A couple of minutes later it fires up again... for 30 seconds or so. The closest 2 or 3 rads to the boiler get hot, lukewarm for the next couple then cold for the other...

Is it only a corgi eng who is 'allowed' to change a PCB? I thought the restriction was only on gas carrying parts :oops: I better not have taken it out to check the solder joints then had I :) I think I'm going to have to admit defeat (and stop being a skinflint) and get an engineer...

Further update on this.... I replaced the ignition electrode and HT lead (as they only cost small change) - it didn't make any difference but I did notice something else whilst doing it. When the sparks are on I noticed a clicking noise from the Full Sequence Control Board - on closer...

OK, thanks. I measured across both the OH stats and yep 0 Ohms. I guess I'll be getting Mr Corgi out Cheers GeeTee 8)

I just thought as it seems fine once it's been used for the first time in the day it's most likely temp related. Hence the question about the overheat stat. Straightforward enough to get at and relpace - just thought it might be worth doing before shelling out. Cheers Graham

My Potterton Puma 80e keeps going to lockout when trying to ignite. However, if I keep pressing the reset button it will eventually light - sometimes takes 10 minutes or more of resetting for it to fire. This is worse in the morning when the system hasn't been used for several hours. If it's...