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Thanks Dan, I thought it shouldn’t be there. CWHEATING - no, no wind up. Why do you say that?

Can any plumbers please help me? What is this component (see pic) on the vent pipe of my vented hot water system? It is a very simple system, just an immersion with hot water cylinder on the ground floor and cold tank in the loft. This piece is just before the hot water pipe (from the top of...

Thanks Roy. I've got a lot to learn. Will be ripping it all off tomorrow and starting again :-(

Roy, just out of interest, why did you scratch coat the bricks before dot and dabbing? Just to level?

Thanks Ken and Roy. The chimney was capped and vented and I thought dry as it was back to brick for a few months and I have been monitoring it. It's also the same on the external walls either side of the chimney so I don't think the issue is penetrating damp but more condensation forming on...

I use dryline pro. Hung all my kitchen units and rads to D&D walls perfectly. They are quite expensive (about £32 for 50 plugs with screws and drill bit) but well worth it in my opinion.

I have dot and dabbed an external wall and chimney that I thought was dry but it is showing some damp patches where the dabs are. I think it's probably due to condensation as I covered the wall with 2 coats of SBR slurry mix before dabbing as a precaution against penetrating damp. I realise...

Thanks again. Yes done quite a bit of taping. I am learning to skim but this is the living room so want it to look ok. Will go back to my self teaching skimming on a smaller room that nobody sees. Probably ought to get some lessons really.

Thanks vinn. What about the sides of the boards ? Will joists at 38cm centres be sufficient to avoid cracks ?

I need to plasterboard this ceiling (see pic) which was once lath and plaster. I did one before and put wooden noggins at the joins of every board but it took ages. Is this really necessary? The only unsupported joins would be at the ends of the boards where joist spacing is every 38cm. I...

Thanks vinn, I think the hit&miss vent sounds like the best plan in that case. Burnerman, I looked into how to physically do it and I think a 90 degree pipe would be possible (down then through the front of the stack under floor level. Bit of a faff to do it but not too bad. I have plenty...

I just typed that without thinking - really I mean without it sucking out all the heating. Will put a vent cap on the pot but even so we are in a very exposed coastal location and when the wind gets up you can really feel the chimney's sucking all the heating out on other chimneys that have...

Yes thanks vinn. Was just trying to avoid a draughty vent when it's windy but doesn't look like I have a choice (can't go through external wall as the exterior is hidden behind a porch wall).

There is about 5 foot under the floor but the 1st floor hearths are concrete on slate so I just assumed the ground floor would be the same. Maybe the underfloor part of the stack is back filled, I'm not sure. I was going to replace a brick with an air brick under the floor but I guess if it is...

I'm bricking up an old fireplace and was wondering if getting a core drill and going down through the old hearth into the floorspace underneath would be ok as venting for the chimney stack (to avoid venting into the room)?

Thanks Roy. It's getting a new ceiling - I pulled the old lath and plaster one down as it was not in good condition. I did the same in another room and dot & dabbed but taped all the joints (TE boards mostly). Have done quite a bit of taping but my skimming needs practice so I will probably...

Thanks Roy C ! I've already taken it back to brick and put on the SBR Slurry so I could either dot and dab straight on to that or put a scratch coat on. It would be much easier for me if I can get away without putting the scratch coat on but if you think it's necessary then that's what I'll...

Thanks, I thought that sounded a lot or unnecessary work. Does the SBR slurry then dot and dab onto it sound ok?

I'm going to dot and dab my living room (1920's semi with cavity walls) which were lime rendered and are now back to brick. Although I don't think there are any damp problems, a builder has advised as a precaution to paint a slurry coat of SBR / Cement on, then paint on a tanking, then...

Hi, I need to tile an external corner (chimney breast) where the tiles on one side go up the wall much higher than on the other. If I use a standard tile trim it would stick out above the level of tiles on the lower side. Can anybody advise how best to do this? Thanks.