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If you can get to any of them easily, then it's probably worth replacing them, if not I'd not be too worried, if you ever do any work that means you can get at them in future, then change them at that stage. While I don't like JBs under floors etc, and never do it - it has to be said that...

Not sure what you mean by inline fuse unit - if you mean an FCU (Fused Connection Unit) then yes, that's a good solution. One thing to make sure however is that if you are burying the cable going up to the loft in the wall, make sure it is in a safe zone (vertically above and below and...

Socket and light wiring seems OK, however your plan to connect the new CU with 6mm T+E isn't... The 100mA RCD does not provide overcurrent protection, so there is nothing to protect the 6mm cable, and if a fault were to occur in the new CU, it could potentially draw enough current to cause...

No reason for the FCU to be next to the socket, but if you did want to put it there, you could then put a 20A DP switch in the loft next to the pump for maintenance use etc - I wouldn't put a plug on the pump, it would just encourage someone in the loft to unplug it to use the socket for...

Personally I'd use an in-line extractor, so the actual fan is up in the loft out the way...

Is it a 20A MCB (in which case is it protected by an RCD), or is it an RCBO - my bet is on a misconnected neutral. Pics of the inside of the CU identifying which is the new circuit, and which terminals it's wires go into would help us work it out...

That all looks fine, just remember new CU circuits are notifiable under Part P. Also, how do you plan on testing the installation once complete?

Well, when I said replace I meant in terms of putting the RCD unit first in the line, you could obviously keep the existing double outlet etc... With a standard double socket, although you could theoretically draw 26A (2 x 13A) you shouldn't aim to draw more than 13A, as that's all they're...

If you replace the current socket with an FCU (your wall mounted RCD unit will do the trick if it has a 13A fuse in it), then you can run as many sockets as you want after that, since the 13A fuse provides overcurrent protection. The load you describe (even ensuring that you don't use the...

I'm not an expert on this, but it would have to be a serious fault to make everything live - if a fault occurred in one piece of equipment, any fault current should flow through the CPC of something else due to the supplementary bonding. Also, even if everything were to go live, the point is...

Rather a long time between completion and a bill - over 6 months, I wonder if there are any rules as to how soon someone has to bill you... As for the fact there's no cert, if the electrician is registered with a scheme provider, I would complain to them, as I believe all the scheme providers...

While yes the shaver socket MUST be RCD protected, there is no obligation to RCD protect existing electrical fittings such as the light etc unless work is being done to it. Having said that, it probably makes sense to protect it at the same time! There are a few options: * Entirely new...

Read the wiki, it has plenty of info on Part P, to summarise though - ALL electrical work must comply with Part P, and certain work (including outdoor electrical work) is classed as notifiable, so you need to notify the LABC before doing the work, unless you are a member of an approved self...

I don't think there's anything else you should do - you have given your professional advice that it is not safe to use, and that it requires attention from a qualified electrician. You *could* attempt to make it harder for the homeowner to use it, by turning off the breaker associated with it...

Now, while I agree that under the bath is out of zones, and therefore not notifiable according to Part P, could there not be an argument that a whirlpool bath is new fixed electrical equipment that is in zone 0/1, so is notifiable because of that, regardless of the fact the FCU and any...

I believe the 16th edition referal is only for the definition of special locations (zones etc) to determine what is/isn't notifiable, so the only conflict is that while the 17th edition might declare something in a bathroom to be out of zones, and not notifiable, under the 16th it may be in...

I'm not clear what you mean about the red from the light switch for showerroom, but assuming your old switch has two terminals, then Com and 1 way are the equivalent on the new, so just wire up as it was. If you old switch had 3 terminals, then you need to identify which is which, and which wire...

The even simpler solution than a flow switch, is to get a fan with a humidity sensor - then it turns itself on when you use the shower... My one is wired up so the humidity sensor will turn it on whenever, and also hooked up to the lights - the noise isn't audible in the bedrooms, and it's...

Ah very true - I guess I shouldn't have said high vs low, but some vs none (i.e. a dead short)...

Coming back to do it - so he hasn't done the testing yet has energised the system, I would be vary wary of an electrician who does that... If you had a high resistance live to neutral or live to earth fault (such as a breakdown of insulation in a cable somewhere, or an appliance, or a bit of...