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The short answer is no! E7 tariffs are normally only worth it if your heating and/or hot water are electric. The higher daytime tariff will negate any savings you make on the nighttime tariff.

There aren't any in the back box, as it's plastic. Good advice for future reference though.

Thanks, I assumed so, just wanted to double check. Both mounting box and switch are plastic.

Hi, I've got a light switch (without earth terminal) on a plastic (drywall) mounting box, which also has no earth terminal. Is it OK to connect the earth cable to a single connector, connected to nothing?

Genius! Now why didn't I think of that? Great idea, thanks.

Yes, of course it's just the MCBs that connect to the old Wylex, but no RCD protection (I did know that!). I do need to replace the CU at some stage, but I need to get a proper spark to do it and it's likely to cost a fair bit. Especially if they find other problems (which you want them to of...

Thanks. I didn't realise the whole ring needs RCD protection (it doesn't have it now). It's an old style re-wire-yourself fuse. I understand you can get RCD devices that fit in these old fuseholders though? I will check earth loop impedance before I start. Also, any thoughts on the JB...

Hi all, I am planning to extend my main ring into a new "box room" home office. As there are no existing electrics in the room and the new sockets aren't physically between 2 sockets in a circuit I need to break into the nearest socket in an adjoining room instead. This will necessarily...

Now why didn't I think of that! That's the way I'll go, I think...

I think the immersion heater is rated at 2.7kw. It's on an old style fuse board with fuses you need to re-wire yourself when they go. I suppose my choice (for now) is between 15A or 30A and I think 15A is OK for 2.7kw? I'll fit a neon switch, even though I don't have kids myself. RE: the...

Hello again. As you might have guessed from all my posts, there is a lot of questionable electrics in my place that I'm checking over at the moment. another thing I have noticed is that the feed for the (no longer present) electric shower is now used for the top-up (rather than night-time)...

Thanks. I'll probably go with the CW1308. I do have broadband, but I think it'll do the trick. Easier to route than CAT5 or CAT6 as well, I expect.

Hi all, Sorry if this has been posted elsewhere, I can't find it mentioned. A lot of posts here say to go for a quality telephone wire, rather than a cheap one, but is there a recognised quality standard for telephone wire and if so, what is it? Thanks in advance?

It's unclear. Adding an unfused socket to a radial circuit isn't notifiable. But adding an unfused spur to a socket from a ring circuit? Either way, I'm going to go for the ring extension while I'm in there.

Thanks. So if I just remove the spur and extend the ring to the same spot the work isn't notifiable? On the basis that removing the spur isn't notifiable and extending a ring isn't either (unless you increase the floor space served by it by to much)? I think it's the way to go. Frankly...

Thanks for that. Yes, I will make sure everything is turned off, fuses are pocketed etc. before I check! So as long as all three wire "pairs" show continuity, I can safely assume it's on a ring? I haven't found any sockets with more than 2 wires yet, the spurs are done with a plug in the...

Thanks for all the links and advice guys, very helpful.

Hello again, Is there any way of telling if a socket is on the main ring or a spur without following the cable all the way? Several sockets in my place have single cables going in, so are obviously spurs. Most of the others have two cables going in, suggesting they are probably on the main...

Thanks for the link. The answer is "as long as they need to be"! i.e. I'll make sure there's enough gap.

Ah, didn't realise that. So as long as it's in the safe zones behind plasterboard, it doesn't need conduit? Presumably it needs to be kept clear of insulation, though?