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personally I would countersink it 50mm meaning 50 left in the wood and 70 in the wall. Remember the bolt head itself is +10mm ish from your countersunk hole

The ‘ concrete bolt’ system is the opposite to the resin one; with this you drill a hole in the wall SMALLER than the diameter of the bolt, and allow the course chunky thread to cut its way in. The hole in the post can be the same size as the bolt, but you need a countersunk hole big enough to...

I have been known to use Tippex before, but Sshhh, don’t tell anyone

Why would you want a gloss finish in a Matt tile ? And modern white grouts don’t go yellow

Well, let’s just say it’s ’not best practice’ to tile onto the Ply and it’s something that should be avoided if poss. But as it’s not a floor, or a large wall/loadbearing/constantly wet or flexing area, it can be done. Make sure you score it first and plenty of SBR as you mentioned. Or, if you...

If it's registered in his name, then leave it to him to get it insured. Some insurance companies won't let you unsure it anyway if it's not yours

Anyone ?

Or a tiny drop of White Grout.

With those ceramic tiles, going onto plasterboard, you can use either flexible or non flex adhesive. In fact, and I'm going to use a tilers swear words here - " tubbed" ! A ready mixed, e.g. BAL green or Bluestar would suffice. In terms of spacers, I wouldn't go any less than a 2mm. Two...

Another vote for CT1. Not cheap, but will get to do the job. Good old fashioned warhorse " Pinkgrip" would have been my go-to years ago.

Hi guys, I'm patching up a bit of blown roughcasting I've removed from a brick outhouse. I've got the scratchcoat on, ( 3:1 , sand being Sharp & Buildi g 50/50) and am about to do the topcoat before I hurl the stones on.... But getting very conflicting advice re what type of sand to use ??? I...

When I done mine I just used a standard concrete bolt ( screwfix 8215P) which is like a selftapper and cuts it’s way into the brick as you screw it in. I used a 4x3 fence pole, and drilled the hole for the bolt, then an inch deep countersunk hole big enough for the head of the socket screw...

Grout choice is something of a personal thing, and I'm sure others will be along their preferences...... Over the years I've mainly used Bal, and Mapei. I prefer the Bal, as I find it mixes easier, the colour/dye is more uniform throughout the mix, and it dries slightly slower. As you are...

No, it is nothing like the same. Tiles can SOMETIMES be tiled on top of tiles, IF the 'second tiler' is confident in the ability and strength of the first tilers adhesive to take the weight of two tiles. I'm often asked to tile over someone else's work, but why would I ? I have no idea...

It does, and don't forget you've to add the weight of the adhesive and grout to that tile. If it can be avoided, it's always best to avoid tiling onto a skim. Wayners is 100% correct - deffo tile direct onto the board. It's a no brainer

But he doesnt want a lock. He just wants to open it from outside.

As I read it, you're looking for access from outside for your folks, not necessarily a security closing ? If so, in Freddies' photograph in post #8, where the ' red box' is drawn, just cut a hole big enough for a hand to go in ?

To answer the question posted - No, you cannot tile over plastic wall panels.

I was looking at the Sikaguard product... It doesn't mention waterproofing in its list of attributes:- in fact, it states on the can " This product does not repel water ", and it needs overpainted to get that. I'm finding it surprisingly difficult to find a good waterproofer !

I was 6 months old at the time, and was thinking to myself “ what a year for a Scotsman to be born- I bet we’ll never hear the end of this “.